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The revolving motor would not turn the glass tray
e.g. First I removed the bottom cover. I then removed the two screws that hold the motor in place. I then pulled the motor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) I then put the new motor in with the two screws and hooked the wires back up. I then replaced the bottom cover and put the the turn rack and glass tray back in place. Works great.
The turntable move intermitently and made a lot of noise.
Once I unpluged the unit and laid it on its back, I remove four screw and exposed the motor. The motor was mounted with two screws and a push on electrical conecter. I reversed the procedure and it was done.
Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin. Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF" Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one. Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug) Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON" Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
-unplug -remove top and front covers -unplug wire connectors from heating assembly -remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way -remove metal stand from dry -pull out heating assembly -install new one in reserve order
stem on bottom of guide cracked and became too loose to drive turntable
It took quite a bit longer to decide which one of the roller guides in the selection was the right one, than to install the new one. Got it right though, works great
I replaced the door key, it was broken on the side so it was not touching the sensor for shutdown. Replaced the door key and the backframe keep the microwave like brand new
I UNPLUGGED the microwave and removed the cover, using a phillips and a Torx screwdriver for the machine screws. I set these screws aside, so as not to confuse them with the later encountered screws. I photographed the magnetron to assure proper placement of the 6 phillips machine screws involved in reassembly (marking the the locations on the old magnetron would do as well. I marked the old magnetron "old", to avoid later confusion. I removed the two screws holding the shields to the magnetron. I removed 3 of the 4 screws holding the magnetron to the microwave, leaving one of the top screws. I held the magnetron securely and removed the last screw, pulling out a the part of the magnetron that penetrated the microwave. I installed the new magnetron in reverse order. One problem I encountered was locating one of the six screws, which had been pulled into the old magnetron by magnetism.
Timer operated normally, but the microwave did not heat water or cook food.
Our GE Profile Advantium 120 Series Over-the-Range Microwave stopped working. We called GE Service. The first available appointment was two weeks after our call. The technician charged $99, gave us a form stating that the Magnetron and Diode Cable as defective and quoting an additional price of $362 to furnish and install these parts. He said that it would be another two weeks before he could do the work. Instead I ordered the parts from you and had them within two days. The parts you furnished were identical to the original parts in our unit. They arrived within two days. I installed the parts without removing the microwave from the wall. The most difficult part was inserting the magnetron mounting screws into openings in the rather tight space available. I was able to do this by using plastic pacaging tape to hold the screws onto the end of a short Phillip screw, Prior to iserting each screw I pushed it through the sticky side of a piece of packaging tape. I then folded the sticky surface over the shank of the screw. Once a screw was seated, but before it was fully tightened, I used needle nose pliers to pull off the tape. The unit now functions perfectly.
After reading reviews that there was no power what so ever and a fuse replacement will solve the problem, I tried it. Replacing the fuse is very easy (and I am not handy at all). All you have to do is remove the microwave cover from the top by removing two screws, slide the cover to the left and pulling the cover off. Then remove the grill in front of you, by removing one or two screws. The fuse is in front of you, use pliers and be firm but gentle. Replacing the fuse is easy but it did not solve my problem.
PartSelect had helpful repair instructions on-line which made the repair easier and faster. Unfortunately, there were other problems with the oven that immediately blew the new fuse I had just installed. It was then determined that additional repair would most likely cost almost as much as a new microwave.