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Started as noise when running, but NOT when filling
I initially thought the pump assembly was dying (or was damaged by a piece of glass or something that had gotten into the pump. I priced the parts and decided I wasn't sure the unit was worth it. But the dishwasher was also not cleaning well, and was leave soap on the dishes. Turned out the water inlet valve was intermittently failing to open. Using the troubleshooting guide (both downloadable and inside the bottom panel) was no help. I just checked and saw that there was power going to the valve when it did not open: diagnosis made. Step 1: turn off water to dishwasher. Step two: remove bottom panel. Step 3, place towels under dishwasher. Step 4, disconnect water line from elbow screwed into inlet valve. Step 5: remove inlet valve screw with nut driver and slide valve sideways and back to remove. Step 6: slide clamp on hose to dishwasher away from valve using pliers. Some work involve with sliding hose off the valve (careful, the hose is accordioned plastic) Step 7: remove elbow from inlet valve (this required a visegrip to hold the narrow nut surface on the valve and a wrench to turn the elbow). Step 8: apply Teflon tape to elbow and screw into new inlet valve. Step 9: install hose to dishwasher and return clamp to hold hose in place. Step 10: reinstall valve by placing tongues into grooves and sliding to the left, reinstall screw. Step 11: tighten elbow with wrench, now that valve is held in place. Step 12: reinstall water line. Step 13: turn on supply line and check for leaks
After replacing the thermal fuse 5 times i noticed the new packaging came with a terminal block on then fuse harness. PLEASE USE THIS. It is a must, it supposedly is acting as some type of heat sink or something for added protection. Used the unit on all cycles now and works great. Just follow fuse instructions precisely. Hope it helps.
Door seal on dishwasher frame was brittle and deteriorated
Didn't have to remove any screws, etc. Just had to pull the old gasket out of a grove in the top and sides of the frame, clean up the particles caused by the deterioration of the old gasket, and install the new gasket. Have to be careful to start at the top center of the frame exactly in the midpoint of the gasket and carefully push the gasket into the grove with your hands. Try not to stretch the gasket. There will be about 2 inches of extra gasket laying on the bottom on each side of the dishwasher, and that is OK.
Pulled the dishwasher out from the counter, on the lower right hand side, about mid way back there is a bundle of all yellow wires, follow that to the sensor which mounts into the bottom of the wash tub. The sensor is easily removed by grasping it by hand and turn it about a half turn (can't remember which direction). It then just pulls out. Disconnect the wire bundle by pushing on the retaining clip and the install is the reverse.
Ordered the parts on your site since I could find a parts schematic that really helped. I had to move the unit out and replace the spring on one side. We replaced both nylon cords since the other was showing a little wear. Received the parts quickly and made the repair the same day.
The leak was dripping from the diverter motor. After removing dishwasher the diverter motor was found to be corroded. The shaft grommet looked good. A new diverter motor was installed and dishwasher connected. After running it awhile the leak reappeared. It seemed the only possible thing left was the shaft grommet. Of course the grommet comes as part of the belly assembly. After searching for a better and cheaper solution I ordered a Whirlpool WPW10195677 grommet and it solved the leak.
This was an easy repair. The leak was around the solenoid of the inlet valve and thus the assembly needed replacement. Turn off the water. Take the screws that secure it to the cabinet out. Pull the dishwasher out where you can tip it on its side. (you might get someone to help you hold it tipped. Disconnect the water line (copper) and the inlet hose (just clipped on)and the electric connection. Take one screw out that holds the valve assembly in place and remove the valve assembly. Put the new assembly in as the reverse procedure. Make sure to use plumbing tape on the threads to the copper water connection so that you wont have a drip leak when its tightened.
Power to dish washer, but no power to any LED's or power buttons.
Very easy to install the new B Metal Fuse. Removed torx head screws holding the outer door panel on the dish washer. Removed the fuse and two wires connected to the fuse. Inserted the new fuse in the holder and plugged the two wire connectors back on. Installed the outer door panel back on, turned the breaker back and the machine powered back up. Very easy install and saved a service call. Total repair cost $24
The tabs that held to wheels on the adjuster broke off on 3 of the 4 wheels. The rack would not stay in place when pulled out.
I took a picture of the old assemblies position. Then I removed one side. It was original and held in place by plastic snaps. We followed the instructions on the first side. The metal wheel assembly and the housing have matching channel & grove so the metal fits into the channel on the housing. We accidentally placed the metal wheel assembly in the adjustment housing backwards then could not get it out and broke two small plastic tabs getting it back out. Turns out that was not a fatal error. We had a bit of difficulty determining the exact positioning of the actuator in the housing and how the housing fit to the rack. One has to really look hard at the instructions. !!!A YouTube video would be very nice for this!!! Once we had the positioning then the assembly went together very easily. The two screws went in easily with a ratchet nut driver and star bit. (an adapter is provided for those who don't have the star bit). The second side was incredibly easy since I knew exactly how to put it together the second time. First side: 20-25 min. Second side 5 min.
Lights flashing on wash options, cancel would work but nothing else
open dishwasher door, use torx socket and ratchet to remove 6 screws. Pull down wash options face, find the bi-metal fuse. Used the directions in the package to replace. popped old fuse out of electrical board, Cut 2 wires, stripped said wires, attached stripped wires in housing on new part, tightened the 2 screws where new wires attach, popped new fuse in electrical board. Reattached face. Very simple and easy to do. Did not fix the problem. Had to get the electrical board that the bi-metal fuse is snapped into. Very easy for someone that has worked on vehicles or electrical things before. If no experience, then I would say it is still easy as long as you follow the directions taht comes with the part. It has pictures as well.
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.
Unsnap the end covers on the old sliding rack and slide the basket assembly out. This leaves the frames for the rack slide on the right and left side of the unit. Both sides snap out by twisting them downward. Remove the plastic brackets on the new racks by twisting them off. Snap new rack slide frames into the corresponding side of the diswasher. They are marked with an "up" arrow. Unsnap end covers on new rack slide frames and reinsert the basket assembly into the frames. Snap end covers over rack slides to trap the rollers into the slide. When you are finished you should dissassemble the strainer unit on the bottom of the dishwasher by the pump and remove all the small plastic balls that were part of the rack assemblies. They fall out and clog up the chopper assembly and pump.