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Plasticware melted onto burner
I removed the screw holding the tilt mechanism to the range top. Removed the clips holding the block together. Disconnected the two power leads on the old burner and replaced with the new burner. Closed the block around the leads. Screwed the tilt mechanism back to the range top and that was it!
Easiest thing I've done. Shut off breaker. Unplug range. Pull out from wall (because this is a good time to remove the back, clean under and around the unit, check out the insulation and electrical contacts....or skip it, whatever). Open oven. Remove door (while ajar, pull up). Remove racks. Unscrew mounting plate from back interior wall. Set screws aside. Gently pull element forward until the leads and wires come through the insulation. Remove any strands of insulation that stuck to the leads and connectors. Unscrew leads. Keep left wire to the left and right wire to the right. DO NOT CROSS. Set screws aside. Discard old element. (This is a good time to clean your oven, if you haven't in a while.) If you cleaned oven, wait until dry. Position new element, feet down, in bottom of oven. Position left wire on left connector. Screw tightly BUT DO NOT BEND LEAD. IF YOU BEND IT, THEN DO NOT BEND IT BACK. CALL A PROFESSIONAL. Position right wire on right connector. Screw tightly BUT DO NOT BEND. IF YOU BEND IT, THEN DO NOT BEND IT BACK. CALL A PROFESSIONAL. Do not leave screws loose. Connection must be tight. Fire hazard, otherwise. If you bent nothing, then gently push element back through insulation until mounting plate is flush. Screw into position. Replace racks. Replace door. If you decide to check insulation and other leads, now is the time. I checked mine and it's a good thing I did.... Unscrew back plate of oven, keeping screws in order. Remove plate. Check that your new element and insulation aren't bunched up or otherwise in a hazardous state. You may notice burned or greasy insulation. You may see burned leads on light receptacle and broil element. If you do, then replace them, too. When finished with everything, replace back plate. Put range back into position, ensuring level and plumb. Plug in. Turn on breaker. Pat yourself on the back. You just saved $100-$250, depending on where you live.
Old infinite switch WB21X36771 broke...heating element stopped heating
1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch. 2. Pulled old switch out. 3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part. 4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable. 5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not. 6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square. 7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop. 8. Hope this helps.
burner would not lay flat against surface of range.
Removed two clips that held the ceramic insulators in place. Removed two screws that held conductors to the burner. Replaced screws onto new burner unit, replaced ceramic insulators. Fastened clip to burner onto the range. Turned burner on and it worked great. Thank you for your quick responce to my order.
Just pushed the new timer knobs onto the stem. They fit and now I can set the oven timer without having to use a pair of pliers to grip the stem and turn it.
Two of the knobs fit perfectly.
The stem for the the clock was broken off and there was not enough of the stem left for the new knob to fit.
Took Switch panel off range. Disconnected Infinite switch. Reinstalled infinite switch.. Replaced panel. Repair was very simple and self explainatory. Knott County Housing Authority Maintenance Personnel
Removed 2 nuts holding the baking unit to the oven back, removed 2 nuts holding wires in place, installed new unit following procedure backwards. It takes longer to get the tools,take the oven door off, and take racks out than it does to remove and replace the baking unit.
Replaced the burner. Still no heat. Decided to take the front off and test the connections (Power Off!). Found no output from switch to burner. Ordered new switch from PartSelect. Switch arrived in 24 hours, just like the burner (I'm in FL, but still fast!) My only problem was that the know didn't quite fit -- too long. Cut the metal correctly, but still too long. Had to cut the plastic adapter slightly. Now it fits like the others, but it's not quite as secure due to shortening the piece that slides on the metal shaft.
Repair went a lot faster and easier than I anticipated. Instructions are similar to those posted by others. 1. Verify that new gasket looks mostly like old gasket as best you can since not all of old gasket is visible. 2. Shut off circuit to oven (optional, but good practice) 3. Remove racks, trays, etc from oven to reduce weight at Step 7 4. Remove oven door by partially opening door to broiler position (about 20 degrees). Door should catch and stay open on its own. Slide up and lift off door. The “hinges” are spring loaded so carefully return them to closed position so they won’t snap shut on fingers. 5. Remove Phillips screws, one on each side wall of oven liner. 6. Remove two hex screws and metal gasket-holder on top center of oven liner. 7. Pull and slide oven liner out of oven mainframe about 1/4 “ to 3/8”. This may be the most difficult part of the job. 8. If possible to remove just a couple of inches of one bottom of old gasket (right side is easiest), verify that the cross-section profile of both old and new gaskets are essentially the same. If not, you have the wrong gasket. 9. Pull and remove old gasket. If gasket is dry and cracking, it may be necessary to scrape it out with putty knife, flat-blade screwdriver, etc. if it has fused to metal over the years. Note how it was installed on the metal edge of the oven liner. 10. Locate the mid-point on the new gasket length and begin inserting it at the top-center of the oven liner where you removed the two hex screws. Continue installing along both left and right sides of the liner. Each end of the gasket should extend to just above the respective hinge. No trimming should be necessary. Ensure a snug fit all along each side and top. 11. Push liner back into oven mainframe. Replace Phillips screws, gasket-holder, and hex screws. 11. Pull out each hinge to broiler position. 12. Replace door by sliding down onto hinges. Close door and check for tight fit against gaskets. Gaskets will flatten somewhat over time 13. Restore power, racks, trays, etc.
Got new part! Unplug range!!! Remove oven door by opening and lifting up at the same time, set aside. Remove two screws with a nutdriver or screwdriver. Pull on element far enough to unhook wires and throw away old element and install the wires on the new element and reinstall!!
Took off the door, took out the two screws in the back of the element. Then pulled the element forward, then removed the two wires. Then put it all back together with the new element.
Ordered new burner and drip pan. New parts arrived within 3 days. Removed screw holding the hinge, removed clips from porcelain insulator, removed old burner, then installed new burner, reinstalled tilt lock hinge, replaced drip pan and ring and set burner in place. The whole installation took less than 10 minutes, and it works perfectly.
Turned off power to the oven at the circuit breaker. Pulled the old heating element from the back lower wall of the oven. Noted the position of the wires (right terminal attached to the red wire, left to the black wire). Removed small bolts holding the element to the wires using pliers. Attached the new element using screw driver. New element came with screws, not bolts. Pushed the element back into place and restored power. Tested to make sure everything worked. Everything works and I ran an oven cleaning cycle. Noticed that indicator light above the temperature selctor is always on now even when oven is in the OFF position. Not sure if that's related to the change or to the oven cleaning cycle I ran. In any case, oven seems to work normally.
