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JCBP25WK1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP25WK1WW
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Oven heating element broke
Turn off the power at the breaker. Use hex head bit from 4 in one screwdriver or 1/4 inch nut driver. Heating element comes out, take off wire clamps and install new piece. Put screws back in, turn breaker on and that's it!
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • ryan from NOVATO, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Not Reaching Temperature above 300 Degrees
Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Ron from SAN TAN VLY, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Broiler Unit Failed
Used nut driver and removed the 4 nuts holding the broiler. Pulled electrical wires of old broiler Received new unit and it was just as easy to replace. Thank you for assistance.
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V
  • William from BOYERTOWN, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Oven coil burned out
Removed the hexagon screws. pulled the unit out and wiggled the tabs loose disconnecting them. Installed the new unit-attaching the tabs making sure they were tight. Put the new unit through the opening in the back of the oven and reattached the hexagon screws. Back in business in about 10 minutes.
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • Nancy from RUSH, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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The lower,BAKE, element had burned in half almost causing a fire.
Slide the rang out to access the 240V plug & unplugging it. Removed the sheetmetal cover from the rear of the range to access the slip on wire plugs to prevent damaging the insulation. The insulation would be damaged if pulling them through the opening in the oven wall with the plugs attached to the element. Removed the racks from the oven. Unscrewed the retaining screws holding the element to the rear wall of the oven, lifted damaged element out and reversed the process for instillation. Perfect opportunity to clean underneath and behind the range.
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • Joseph from DIAMOND SPGS, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Lower oven element burned into
Move range out from wall,unplug power supply,remove two screws from back wall of lower oven element unplug two wires,discard burned element.Install new element,plug two wires in,fasten two screws. Done
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • Rickey from Childress, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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would not heat
Did the repair just like the video shows.
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • Mark from SARASOTA, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Oven would not heat up
I removed the rear lower cover. Disconnected the terminals from the heating element. Removed 2 screws from the heating element from inside the oven. Removed the heating element. Reinstalled everything in reverse order.
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • MICHAEL from MORROW, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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The bottome heater element of my oven burned out.
I used pliers to remove the hex bolts from the old burner element and pulled out the terminals by hand. I ordered my part and was slightly concerned because the part number was different (this due to my oven being so old I guess). After reading another repair story on this site, when I got my new part, I turned off the electricity to the range at the fuse box vs. unplugging the oven from the wall - because if I had pulled out the oven to access the plug, I would have had to re-caulk along the edges where it connects with my counter tops. I then slid the terminals into the female parts; this was a bit tricky because the female parts had receded behind the insulation in the hole in the back of the oven where they are located. I used small needle-nosed pliers to grab them and pull them forward enough to slide the new terminals in (by hand). I then put in the old hex bolts and used the pliers to tighten them. Flipped the fuse box switch and tried it out - worked great!
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • Mary from ALOHA, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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stove top burner not heating
The longest part of the job was finding my misplaced nut driver!!Note:A small socket set will do.Unplug stove from outlet,remove rear cover panel,lift stove top up to access terminal. remove the one screw that holds the terminal and slide off the two wire clips that hold the wires up out of the way.next clip off the old terminal leaving the old wires so you can tape the new wires on just to pull them through the hole.Once you have the new wires pulled up to the heat control unplug old and replace with the new,tighten the screw on the new terminal and don't forget to slide on the wire clips
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
  • Jon from Readsboro, VT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Missing screw to range door handle
The part that was ordered based on the shamanic wasn't the part that was needed for the repair. It was to short. I took the other screw for the other side and that screw was an inch longer than the screw that was ordered thru your company. I then went too a jar that I placed extra screws, nuts and bolts which l keep in my garage . I found a same length screw but a different head and it works perfectly fine. When I ordered the part from your company most of the parts did not have a photo of the part on file, or a description like how long the part is. I still ordered it because it should fit the make and model number that was posted on the shamanic that was showed to me on line.
Parts Used:
SCREW 8-22 PL 1HX 71
  • Stanley from TRENTON, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Hot burner light lens broke off.
Pull range away from back wall. Remove panel behind control knobs by removing the screws that hold it on. Find hot burner light that holds lens. Remove broken part of lens. Insert new lens into hole on front of control panel and into hot burner light receptacle. Replace back panel. Slide range back into place.
Parts Used:
Lens
  • Charles from NEKOOSA, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Replace rangetop burner connectors
Since we got the stove,this is the second time we've repaired these connectors. The first time the connectors came with pre-stripped wires, wire nuts and heat shrink tubing. This set came with pre-attached spade terminals, so I had to crimp the mate to the wires in the stove then put heat shrink tubing on the splices. I also had to bend the part of the connector that mounts onto the stovetop. These had a horizontal tab for the mounting screw rather than the vertical design that our ranges uses. If the connectors designed for the earlier model were available, it would simplify installation since shrink wrap and wire wraps came in that kit and the mounting bracket would fit correctly.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
  • James from Wilson, WY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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The terminal block was arcing and flickering, the burner did not heat up
First and foremost I read each of the blogs from your site from other people who have repaired this part. It was great.
First I unplugged the stove. Removed the back plate of the stove by unscrewing 6 screws. Removed the heating element & drip pan. I lifted up the stove top to examine the receptable, and removed the receptable held in place by a single screw using the nutdriver.
Once it was removed, I cut the wires attached to the receptacle with pliers. I screwed on the new receptacle, and taped the new wires to the old ones which led back to the back panel where they were attached to the switch.

By doing so, I was able to easily lead the new wires to the back side of the stove panel. I removed each old terminal wire and replaced it with the new one. (I had read in a previous blog that the polarity of the new wires didn't matter). I replaced the drip pan, and heating element, turned the switch and everything was working just great! I replaced the back panel, and that was it!
As you probably can guess I have never attempted to repair any type of appliance...ever! But your website and the people who shared their stories empowered me to do the job. Thanks so much!
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
  • Lisa from MERCER ISLAND, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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lower element burned out
after removing element.I order part. part was inserted without problems . It was correct fit. I am now baking again. Thank you the quick services on the order.
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • Charlean from Lyon, MS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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All Instructions for the JCBP25WK1WW
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