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JCB870SF2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCB870SF2SS
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Refrigerator light wouldn't come on.
After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.
Parts Used:
Light Switch
  • Daniel from Crown Point, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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terminal was broken due to maney uses
unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
  • Emmett J from Winchester, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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The lights were on inside however the the water/ice dispenser did not work and the fridge and freezer side was not cooling
Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.
Parts Used:
Run Capacitor
  • Rickey from DUMAS, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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bad condenser fan motor, noisy
used prior reviews, was good, I was not sure how to remove fan blade. It just pulls off.
space is tight but every thing went ok.
Parts Used:
Condenser Fan Motor
  • Jerold from Rocklin, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Difficulty in removing the old switch
The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.
Parts Used:
Light Switch
  • James from Federal Way, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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I broke the left drawer glide on our oven
I unscrewed to old glide and replaced it then re attached the screw
Parts Used:
Drawer Glider - Left Side
  • Keith from Freeport, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broken water filter appliance
Literally turned off the water to the refrigerator, disconnected the lines from the back and took one screw loose from the inside of the unit. Slid out old filter connection and slid in the new one and did reverse process.
Parts Used:
FILTER MANIFOLD
  • William from BLUE RIDGE, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Mullion not working. Replaced mullion.
1. Turned power off.
2. Removed 2 screws holding plastid plate which connected electrical wire from mullion to door (requires Torq-tip screwdriver).
3. Unplugged wire plug behind the plate.
4. Lifted up old mullion from 2 slots holding it in place to remove it from door.
5. Inserted new mullion into slots on door.
6. Connected electrical wire to plug inside door.
7. Screwed 2 screws to reattached plastic plate to door.
8. Turned power back on.
Parts Used:
MULLION ARTICULATING Assembly
  • David from DIAMOND BAR, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dairy bin did not come with the refrigerator
Slipped into place easily.
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Dairy Bin, Right
  • James from KYLE, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Front right burner would obtain the right heat setting.
Went to You Tube, found the appropriate segment. "Wa La" the problem was solved. Burner is working the way it is supposed to.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2500W
  • John H. from JACKSONVILLE, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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The oven did not get up to or hold the correct temperature
This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the connector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Robert from ARROYO GRANDE, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burner at full red hot power despite setting
After removing power from the range, I pulled the unit out for better access to the rear. I carefully pulled all four knobs off the front of the control panel. Next, using a short phillips screwdriver, I removed two screws from the front bottom of the control panel. On the rear of the control panel, there are four screws to loosen, now the whole panel is free to remove toward the front of the unit. The burner switches are held onto the panel with two screws that are located on the front under where the knob had been. The wires are all connected to the switch with crimp type connectors. These are on tight, but can be removed carefully with pliers. Before doing so, I took a picture on my phone to ensure I replaced the wires in the correct order. Everything goes back together in reverse order. This is a good time to clean behind and under the whole stove. The whole process took around 20 minutes.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2500W
  • Matt from TAZEWELL, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Two sockets for electric elements and their end terminals were badly burned.
0) Take the back cover of the range off.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For each unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!

That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
  • Marco from Santa Barbara, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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The burner bowls were burnt through and nasty looking.
I carefully removed the burners, removed the bowls and replaced them with the new ones. Easy as pie!
Parts Used:
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
  • Isabel from The Colony, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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compressor won't kick on
Pulled ice box away from wall. Took lower cardboard cover off. Shut water line off. Got my volt meter and checked the current going from the wall to the plug in at the inverter (input side), and I had the required 115 volts. Then I unplugged the connection going to the compressor (not the plug at the compressor which you cannot see until you unbolt the inverter) but the output connection side that goes to compressor. I checked the voltage and had about 13 volts not the required 115 volts. Therefore, I came to the conclusion that the inverter was bad. I ordered one from Partselect and they shipped it right away. I installed it and the ice box is back up to running order.
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Inverter Kit with Jumpers
  • Kenneth from RINGGOLD, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the JCB870SF2SS
91 - 105 of 376