JCB2581WES00 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

I removed two small bolts that secure the flapper that keeps ice from falling out when you open the door, one bolt that holds a cosmetic cover for the wires and slid the icemanker forward. The only difficult part was removing the plug since it was high up, the wires were stiff and there's a release to push that locks the two plugs together. Once it was removed all was installed in the opposire order.
The part I ordered had a slightly taller channel where the water refills so I had to trim it to allow the new icemaker to slide in without bending the fill nozzle. Other than that it was pretty easy.

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

change light bulbs

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.

I followed the instructions that was on your site and it was very easy to follow.

The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.

First thought it might've been a problem with the inlet valve assembly but it wasn't. Took the factory unit out of the refrigerator and from testing found out one of the wires (black) was busted so splice a new wire in and motor started working but the "arm" would only rotate to a certain point and stop. I then discovered a broken tab inside the motor housing so at the point I just ordered a brand new icemaker unit. When I got it, I just mounted it to the base plate then slid it into the tracks in the refrigerator. The spout where the water comes out was the only tricky part but it is flexible so you just have to push it away and put it back into the tray when the whole unit is inserted. Once inserted, connect the power to the refrigerator, lock the wire cover to the base plate and you should be fine. The new unit started working right away. Whole process took 5 minutes.

Replacement of parts was simple. But there are three main reasons that ice maker quits: door sensors stop working; ice maker, or it control system, stop working, or the coil controlling when water is released into the ice maker stops working. It was easy to replace the door senors; repairman replaced the ice maker and control board, which is located in one end of ice maker, but it ended up being the coil or simply a frozen water outlet into the ice maker that stopped the system from from working. The first thing you should do is to make sure that the water outlet into the icemaker is not frozen - use a hair dryer to melt frozen ice in the outlet - don't melt the plastic outlet with high heat. If the system still does not work go to this: look at red sensor on door to the the right. If it blinks twice in a couple of second with a time out and then repeats over and over, close the door on the receiving sensor on the left hand side of the casing and if the red light comes on steady then the sensor is working properly. So, now you have the coil that turns the water on and off or the water maker itself that can be bad. It will be one of these that are at fault, but not both. Call a repairman.

Easy repair, unplug the fridge and then remove the 3 screws on each side of the freezer holding the emitter and receiver. Swap the boards and re-install. Takes less than 10 minutes.

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

removed the LED covers on both sides of the freezer, unplugged each circuit board, plugged in both circuits, replaced the LED covers, job complete, making ice

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

I could have bought the "brains" of the ice maker, but decided to replace the whole ice and make sure the problem was fixed. This refrig was let in home I just bought, so do not know its history. The biggest problem was trying to get the ice maker out of the tight spot without applying undo pressure on any part. It finally came out. The next problem was figuring out the catch on plug-in for electrial power. That done, the new ice maker went in without a hitch and is making ice. Glad I decided to order the part and do it myself for the cost of a service charge -- and not service call and part.