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light inside fridge was flickering and clicking
tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok
This is the 2nd time I replaced the ADC, the freezer condenser was frosting up again and wouldn't keep the freezer or refrig cold. 1st part only lasted 6-months. The simple fact is that the ADC used in the Maytag as well as others is under designed; I purchased 2-this time, 1's a spare, and you know it going to need to be replaced again. Sadly I'm stuck with this Refrigerator for at least 2-years before I buy another, it's only 5-years old. From my experience (with other Maytag products I've purchased recently) I'd never buy another Maytag product, ever! Since Whirlpool bought Maytag, I'm taking Whirlpool off my list too. Thanks Partselect for such a speedy delivery on the part everything back to normal, at least for now, wished I knew how long this ADC will last?
Fridge thawed - Compressor cycled on briefly then cut off
I rolled the fridge forward and removed the cardboard backer plate. Listening to the the compressor click in failed attempts to start, I was hoping it was just a failed relay.
I unplugged the fridge,took a photo of the wiring and removed each wire from the relay. Removing the relay from the compressor took some effort. (Pull hard or pry loose with a screw driver as it is a snug fit.) Shaking the failed part gave the sounds of a baby's rattle so ordered the replacement kit.
The parts received were quite different that the original. Rather than a modular plug, the kit consists of the two components a wire jumper and a large plastic housing. Perhaps there will be less heat build up and this will last longer.
The directions were straight forward, but the black & white photos had little contrast and some details were hard to make out. The wiring color scheme in the instructions did not match my unit. Checking the on-line wiring plans confirmed that it had also been missing a ground wire to the compressor all these years -- yikes! After plugging in the two components to the compressor and connecting the wires and adding a ground, I aligned the plastic housing over the connections. The cover did not snap into place with any authority, but appears to be secure.
I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!
Constant running, ice build-up in evaporator, fridge side warm
Simple parts replacement. The temp control was a bit tricky as it involved replicating the bends of the tiny tubing for the sensor coil, but everything is so modular that it was not that difficult.
Freezer defrosted while doing the control repairs, it had a lot of ice stuck in the evaporator because the defrost function was not working.
The worst part of all this was moving the food and making sure it did not spoil.
Freezer was not staying cold enugh for ice maker to work. Discovered fan was not working to cool condensor. Fan motor would only run if manually turned.
Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.
removed card board protection.4 screws. Unpluged refrigerator unscrewed the screw holding the valve but not all the way. disconnected the electric connection. removed the water connection after disconnecting the main water valve. replaced valve by reconnecting everything. Turned on water to check for leaks. Easy fix and recieved the part sooner then expected. Will highly recomend your fast service and correct part replacement. web site was easy to use. THANK YOU
I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.
I removed all contents from the lower shelf. I, then removed both of the pull out drawers. Secondly, I removed the lower glass shelf and the glass support tray. At this point all four plastic shelf supports were accessible. I removed the inner screw from all four supports and replaced with four new shelf supports. Then reassembled in reverse order. Very easy to do!
(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!
Freezer and fresh food sections too warm, with control settings at coolest.
Thanks to previously posted PartSelect stories, I had a good idea on how to proceed. This component, as others have suggested, is clearly a piece of junk. This is the third time it has been replaced, once under warranty, again in a service call for $160 and now by me, with a PartSelect unit for $52. The circuit board, with integral relay, resides in the extreme upper right hand corner of the fresh food compartment. Remove upper shelf. Remove white plastic control cover through which the lights illuminate the compartment. Finger grips at both sides at rear. Slide forward about an inch to clear the tabs visible at the rear, then tilt down and off. The owners' manual describes this at "Changing the Light Bulbs". It also gets the lightbulb description wrong, but .......... Now remove the hex head screw facing you at the rear center. Then get its two cousins which are vertically positioned to hold the front of this housing up into the roof. They're left and right, just rearwards of the ends of the control setting dial. These three tapping screws which you now have in hand are about 1 1/4" long. Next, there are two Phillips head screws, also into the roof, whice are just to the rear of the two light sockets. Removing these, and the left one is awkward, frees up the control totally except for the wiring harness, which restrains it at the rear. No matter, just tilt the unit down so that the front lip is pointed down towards you. The piece-o-crap board is at the right rear. Pop off the connector, takes some force, and put in your new module. Order another one now, you will need it. The service tech who changed out my next-to-last one left a circuit diagram back there with the new control, like saying "I'll be back."
Took out all shelves and racks. Pulled out plastic cover. Removed screws holding control unit. Removed unit and accresses defrost circuit board. Replacement is in a cover. One screw would not engage so did not put it back in. Reefer was cold within hour of start and is now 1 week after. Unit would start out cold and then warm up before replacement. Other parts were snap in furnishings that had become damaged with use.