Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Front Burner,no control of.
The original controls were different for the small burners and the large burners. The replacement part fits all. Before removing wires, pay attention to writing on new and old control and replace 1 at a time. The hardest part was being sure to cut the knob stem to the correct length. Control works well.
Had one burner that was completely out as the old terminal block had a broken contact. The other burner was intermittent and would arc when heating up. There are several slightly different size terminal blocks. I had a hard time re-inserting one of the old burners into the new terminal block but got it to seat. I put a new burner with the new block on the other one and it fit much better. Additional tools used were a wire stripper and a heat gun for the heat shrink. The stove works great now.
I called the local GE appliance & sales place, informed them that a friend of mine had found the part on Partselect.com, after they told me the part was no longer made, could not be found. My friend that found Partselect was going to install it for me himself but then I decided it might be best to have the dealer do it, in case something went wrong. I can not buy another stove because they no longer make the upper/lower stove like this model, I would have to rip out my cabinets! plus I do not have the money they are asking for a new stove.. Besides the fact that I LIKE this setup! 27 yrs. old, top oven was always 50 degrees off, but I know it, so not a big deal..
I read parts select instructions and i was done in less than 30 minutes. Since 1988, this is the 1st. part that I had to replace. I now have parts select on my favorites list.
Pulled out the 8 inch surface element and then used a 1/4 inch socket to remove mounting screw for terminal block and pulled out block with attached wires as far as wires would permit. My range top does not lift up so I had to work thru surface opening but there was at least 10 inches of wire to pull out so it was not a problem. Cut existing wires at block, stripped 1/2 inch of insulation using my wire stripper pliers and wrapped wire ends of new terminal block and secured with wire nuts provided. Slipped on shrink insulation provided and applied flame from a hand held butane lighter. The instructional video on the web site was a great help. I may not have done repair without first watchng how easy it is. A cheap wire stripper is a great help. This supplier made it easy to select parts with fast delivery and complete the repair. Great source of appliance parts.
slid the range away from wall. disconnect power. removed back,compared switches and marked wires.installed new switch and wires.the adapter for the control knob was a problem it left the knob out futher than original i had to modify the plastic adapter and got it close enought! the most time spent was cleaning up the floor before putting the range back.
Simple repair. Easy to do. It was disappointing to receive replacement parts which were not ceramic terminals as depicted and described in words, but plastic and therefore will need to be replaced again soon. In addition the shrink tube was not large enough in diameter to cover the wire nut, both of which were provided with the replacement terminal. Part # PS232646 is not ceramic, but plastic which does not fair well in high heat applications.
Remove oven door, removed Phillips head screws on perimeter of oven chamber, loosened four or five square head screws to facilitate the removal of the old gasket, (this gave enough room/play to pry the oven chamber slightly) then removed the old gasket, and re-assembled the oven, and replaced the door.
Pull out oven/range unit. Lift range top all the way up. Remove old terminal block. Make electrical connections using supplied wire nuts & heat shrink tubing. Heat shrink. Replace range top. Install coil burner & burner pan as unit. Done.
Removed 3 lower screws holding the upper oven inside door panel to the door frame. There is enough flexibility in the panel to coax it away from the frame at least an inch. Removed the old nut plate from inside the door and replaced it with the new one. Screwed in the retention pin and 2 washers while holding the nut in place. Assembled the 3 lower screws to complete the assembly.
R had ight front control made loud noise when contacts opened.
This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Plastic Insert for knob to long, had to use my bench grinder to cut it down
(Turn off the Power) Pull stove out, remove the 2 screws that holds switch in place, remove one wire at a time and install on new switch. Slip switch in replace 2 screws. Snap off about 3/4 of the shaft cut down plastic insert for knob, install knob turn on power and it works.
Took oven door apart to get to gasket. . . Took about an hour or less. Then I basically cleaned the entire over door while I waited for the part to come. When the new gasket came I started to put it back on. I used springed type clothes pins to hold the gasket in place on the middle part of the door which hold the glass. As I put on the out part of the oven door over the middle part of the oven door, I carefully took the pins off as I gradually slipped the 2 parts of oven door back together. After the gaskets were carefully adjusted to it's proper position, then I put the nut screw back in through the gasket holes to hold the 2 oven door parts back together. Then, I finally put the rest of the door back together. This took about an hour also. Not to bad when you have to do this by your selves. This is the second time I've put in a new oven gasket. The oven is 28 years old, so the gaskets last me about 14 years each time. We hope to keep the oven a few more year before we buy a new glass top style stove. Hope this was helpfull to all you diy's !!! Don
