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The heating element broke in half.
This was a very simple procedure. I removed the 2 screws in the oven itself (holding the element in place), then pushed the element through the back of the oven so the wires were exposed, then slipped off the wires, the male end from the female end, I then removed the entire element. I put the new element in the over, re-attached the wires, put the screws back in place, replaced the cover, and the oven was as good as new.
My friend's husband came over to help. I mentioned that after unscrewing the old bake assembly unit, we would have to capture the wires or they would slip into the back. Before he even had the screws undone, the wires did, indeed, slip into the back. He then removed the back panel and retrieved the wires, pushed them back through the insulation and clipped each of them onto the back assembly. However, the wire clips kept slipping off so he eventually had to criimp the clips to keep them tight on the ends of the bake assembly. That troubled me; what if in the future one of those clips comes loose while the oven is in use? Any suggestions on how to keep these connectors on tightly?
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
The light socket cup could no longer hold the bracket that holds the light cover in place.
I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.
Lots of jiggling until I found the screws to remove. After finally getting the top off the base there was the Instructions on a pamphlet taped to the bottom. The key tho get the top off is to remove the face and remove the proper screws( they are identifiable)unplug the electric plug 2 screws on the back sides and poof it is free!
Pulled the stove out from between the cabinets, used a blade screwdriver to pop the oven door retainers down and lifted the oven door out, removed the racks. used a 1/4'' nut driver to remove the 5 screws holding the broiler in place. From the time I unplugged the stove from the outlet until I plugged the stove back in was 15 min. I would suggest wearing gloves because the metal frame around the burner element has sharp edges.
Repair was slow, due to replacement part was incorrect. Original part had two spring loaded spacers, & holes for them to sit in. The replacement part did not have holes. I was able to drill two holes to make it work.
Turned off power. Opened range door, removed 2 screws that held top in place. Took a photo of the existing wiring for reference. Removed old burner. Be careful with spacers & springs. If dropped, they will be hard to locate in the insulation. Replaced wiring connectors & verified proper location with photo. Closed cover, replaced 2 screws & turned on circuit breaker.
The control knob on the burner stopped allowing you to adjust temperature and would on turn the burner off when turning counter clockwise
I turned off the breaker, removed the control knobs from all of the burners there are plastic knots on each control knob that needs to be removed (once loosened they can easily be turned by hand). You can then just lift the out piece off. You need to remove 4 knots to release the control panel so you can access the control know. I removed the 2 screws in the old control know, there are 4 wires that need to be pulled to disconnect. I wrote down the order in which the colored wires were connected . I then removed the old part and reversed the process
Changed the lower heating element. Simple, simple, simple. I first went on YouTube and watched a couple of videos. Reassurance is a good thing. Okay here we go. 1) Pull the oven out from the wall 2) UNPLUG 3) remove the racks in the oven 4) Unscrew the (2) screws holding the element to the back wall of the oven. 5) There are two (2) connections that you simply pull off. Remove the element. 6) Throw the old heating element away and connect the NEW element where the OLD one was. 7) Put the old screws back in. Plug the oven back in and test. VOILA!!! you are now a repairman.
opened oven door and removed two 1/4 " screws from range top. lifted range top and propped open like a car hood with a 1" diam dowel rod. marked on new element the wire color locations from old element and removed wires. removed the two small screws and clips that hold the element to the range top and removed element. Matched where the mounting screws locate to the new element. Installed new element in reverse order.
Removed the rear panel from the Range using the nut driver. pulled the terminal wires off the back of the heating element. Double checked if there was continuity across the heating element terminals before removing the element. If there is none, its bad. remove the two screws inside the oven holding the element in place. Once free, lift the front of the element to about 30 degrees and pull towards you. Insert the new element in the reverse manner then secure it using the two screws. Push the terminal wires onto the terminals on the back of the element and reinstall the rear panel.
My son did it by using pliers. He took out the screws that held the element in and pulled it out and used the pliers to pull the wires out of the old one and snapped the new one in . put it back together. about 5 minutes.
