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Fue muy facil desconectar primero la estufa despues quite los tornillos de la parte superior detras de la estufa, desconecte un cable del switch y lo conecte en el nuevo despues el siguiente hasta conectar todos los cables en el nuevo switch. Lo mejor es desconectar uno por uno para mo mesclar los cables , despues removi el switch de la estufa y puse el nuevo , puse las partes de regreso y listo conecte la estufa t revise si funcionava el quemador y listo sin ningun problema.
It took a bit of head scratching to remove the oven door. I had read another user saying he'd removed the hinge screws unneccessarily, so I left them alone. I eventually was able to locate the locks on each hinge. Once they were disengaged, it was a simple matter to lift off the door. After that, I removed all the screws (except the hinge screws) and took the door apart. Once it was disassembled, I found two loose triangular pieces, about 1 1/2" long. I later discovered these were spacers for the two top srews. They were placed on end, and the top screws passed through them. All in all, a relatively simple repair, which absolutely amazed my wife, landlord, faily, etc.
Nothing really rocket science here. The oven racks had burned on food, and I just replaced the racks..... slide out the old and slide in the new. Done !
First I removed the five screws that hold the element in place and pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and hooked a piece of wire on the leads to make sure they did not fall behind the cabinet. Then I connected the new element to the lead wires and removed the piece of wire and secured the new element in place with the mounting screws. Took about 25 minutes to remove and replace.
Bake element shattered while cooking coating everything inside with a fine white dust
First I searched for the part here and I had a slightly hard time finding the correct element on the site. Then I read the comments of the others and the issues they faced. I unplugged the range and pulled it out a bit from the wall. I then removed the two screws that hold the element in place and put them where I would not lose them. Then I gently maneuved the element out and placed a clothespin on each of the wires to keep them from going back in and then disconnected the wires from the element using a pair of needlenose pliers.
At this point I had to gently bend the new element back into shape as it had been bent during shipping. Then I connected the wires and slid the element into place and installed the two screws.
Double checked to make sure everything was ok plugged in the range, said a quick prayer and set the temperature to 300. When it got to 300 the element shut off and I was happy that the element did not take any other parts with it.
Would have helped it I knew the push on terminals of the bake element were visible and accessible to slide the terminals on from the back side of the stove in the beginning. There is not enough slack in the the terminal wires to connect them from the oven side, so you will have to open the back panel to retrieve a wire anyway. SO, CONNECT THE BAKE ELEMENT TO THE OVEN WALL FIRST ! Then, open the back panel of the stove and simply slide the terminals on the exposed slide terminals of the bake element.
Removed door from range(see manual for instructions). Set door face down on protective cloth material .Remove two top screwws, 3 bottom screws and lift back of door off. Remove two screws on each side of door bottom channel and remove channel. Put in new trim on bottom of glass window and put screws back in. Set back of door on top of front cover and screw two top screws and 3 bottom screws back in. Set door back into range. Lock clips on both hinges.
Terminal block connectors worn out wasn’t making a good connection with the stove top burner
Cut 4 inch’s off the new terminal block wires then using my wire strippers stripped 1/2 inch off the ends , the old terminal block wires I stripped 1/2 inch at the ends using a wire nuts on both wires and electrical tape connected the terminal block to the stove plugged the new burner in and the burner worked 100%.
The burner coil had shorted out and actually burnt a hole in my non stick pan and after I replaced that, it would not heat up again. I actually swapped the wires from the back burner, but the small coils use a different watt switch and it would barely boil water with the big coil. So I ordered this
First turn off the breaker, and test with my milti meter. Raise the top panel where the coils are and prop it open high enough to use a screwdriver to open the front panel. Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one. Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
ordered over the phone a new temp sensor. Un plug the oven, take off the back, open oven and unscrew the temp sensor, pull the sensor until the elec connector clip comes through so you can unclip the old sensor, clip on the new then pull the line back and re attach the sensor to the ovn. Plug in the oven. Pretty simple, just hard to work inside the oven. I unclipped the sensor line outside the oven to make sure it would come apart first before I was working inside the oven.
I had to replace the surface heating element on my Selectra stove top.
I just inserted the replacement where the old one had been connected. It took less than 5 minutes. It was so simple & easy that 'repair' is too generous a word -- & I am NOT handy, in any sense of the word. It took me longer to figure out where to find the model number!
Switch started arcing in the dial range of 2 to 8 in about a year.
Pulled the range out and unplugged it. Removed the back panel. Removed one wire at a time and plugging it in on the new switch. unscrewed the existing switch from the front panel (Two screws). Screwed the new one in, replaced the panel, plugged in the range and tested it. The new switch was a perfect OEM replacement and worked perfectly.
Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connections. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year! Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
