Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven "control board" went dead so oven & digital readouts weren't working.
First we pulled the range away from the wall and unplugged it. Then took off the top back panel, disconnected the color coded wires, unscrewed the board and removed it. Then we unpeeled the "face" from the old board and stuck it on the new one, screwed the new one into place, reconnected all the wires and screwed the panel back on. The oven is working just fine and in time for cooking the Thanksgiving turkey! Ordering the part was a breeze--one of the easiest websites I've ever used. Thank you!
I order the part online on the 23rd of February 09 in the afternoon it was delivered on the 24th to the address in Florida and then fedex to me in Cayman. So I got it on the 2nd of March went home that evening after work got my pliers unpluged the stove removed the two screws that holds the element in place. I also removed the metal from the back of the unit first to make sure I was doing it right. I then pulled the element at the back and disconnected the two wires replacing it with the new one. I then replaced the back and screws and pluged it in turned on the oven waited and when I saw it turn red I felt so good. I said thank you Lord and then baked a cake. The whole installation took about 20 mins. Thanks again. P.S. please look into offering shipping orders overseas.
Threw the breakers off for the range. Removed the 2 screws on element connection end. Pulled element out 3 to 4 inches being careful not to scrape insulation on 220 wires. Had wife hold element from moving as I wiggled off the pair of wires from the element connectors. Next made sure wires were clipped in wooden sprung closepin to prevent slippage back into the rear of the hole in the oven. Next removed the screw holding the thermo lead being carefull not to kink or twist it. Removed the final 2 screws from the front hangers and removed the old unit from the cavity.
Placed the new unit in the cavity and slid the front clip backwards 3 inches to allow work romm when the unit was attached. Doing it this way allows the element to float so you have both hands to reconnect the 220 wires. After reconnecting then rescrew the thermo to the connection plate and carefully slide the unit backwards in the front clips allowing the wire connections to be put where they belong without touching the range sides or rear panel. Replace the final 2 screws when the unit is seated properly in the back wall.
Flip the breakers to on and test your handywork. You should see a glow off of the element in 30 seconds or less. Be aware a small bit of production lubricant may burn off with the first heating of the unit. No worry as it is a small wisp.
Staining/ burnt paint on door trim and drawer front
Simply pull out the drawer, four screws hold the front panel on, remove and replace the front panel. For the door trims, with the drawer removed, take out three screw on the bottom of the door, tilt door outward, take out two screws at the top inside of the door. This separates the outer shell from the door. Retaining screws are now exposed for the trims. Simply remove and replace the trims one at a time being careful the proerly align the glass front panel.Replace the front shell back on the door assembly. It is helpful to have an extra set of hands to hold it in place while reassembling.
Yeah, so I didn't read the manual the first time we ran the self-clean cycle on the oven. Something about taking the racks out. So these were my little reminder to never do that again. The old racks came out; the new ones went in. Ten seconds. On to the next embarrassment...
Stove not heating properly for baking. Since unit is 13 years old, I decided to replace both heating elements and temperature sensor.
Turned off breaker for stove. Pulled stove from wall and turned it to access back. Unplugged cord for better movement of unit. Took off back panel exposing connecting wires and disconnected them all. Unscrewed element and sensor screws using small socket wrench and removed from oven. Replaced three items and rescrewed. Went to rear of stove and reconnected all wiring. Moved stove to plug back in and turned oven on. Everything worked fine so I let the unit cool for 20 min to 1/2 hour. Replaced back panel and pushed stove back in place. Fairly easy repair. DO NOT lean on oven door! Oven will tilt forward with enough pressure.
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct. They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support. The draw is now operational..better then ever.
My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.
Burner "burned out" so we replaced the one and replaced the other that seemed to be cooling down.
Basically removed the screws holding the op on and removed the vent from back. Just "figured it out" and now it works. Wish I could be more helpful. Recommend moderate experience and confidence.
Oven not holding a consistant temperature. Found the replacement part easily on you website.Thanks to your photo.
First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.
Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary screw, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.
When we moved into our new home I discovered that the oven that came with the home did not have any racks in it. I ordered these racks because they said they were compatible with Hotpoint ovens. However, when the racks arrived they were just a tad too wide to easily slide in the oven. With a bit of force my husband was able to shove the racks in. Luckily I don't cook enough to care if they are moved again because I don't think they'll come out easily.