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Interior light needed replaced
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct. They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support. The draw is now operational..better then ever.
Turned power off, removed back cover, removed four screws for control board and replaced. The control board shorted out due to accidentally lifting the bottom heating coil while energized. This caused it to short out on the terminals in the back (did not trip breaker for some reason). Removing those connectors to clean them up a little is the only reason I needed the pliers. All the wires are color coded to put them back where they came from on new board. Because of other stories on this web site, I knew to order the $12 faceplate graphics so I didn't have to try to peel off the old one. Unfortunately, the graphic was damaged in shipping. However, I am getting a replacement free of charge, but I have to take it all apart again to stick it on. 1/4" nut driver is really all a person needs to do this job. Pliers could help pull wires off terminals if they are really tight, and the back panel might be secured with one phillips head screw also. Mine wasn't, but it looked like it should have been so it is now. I also put a little electrical tape on the inside of the rear panel behind those connectors for the bottom heating coil, so if it is ever lifted up again, it won't short out and fry the control board again.
My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.
No clock, oven control buttons don't work, stove top work ok, tested power was ok to the control board.
Removed back panel screws, removed back panel, removed screws of the control board, remove control board, heated glue and tore off plastic face plate, placed face plate on new control board, installed new control board, moved wires from old control board to new control board, test out oven, reinstalled back panel
the switch that changes my burner from small to large depending on the pot you are using
3 bolts the back comes right off and I always take a picture so you don't confuse your wires the part pops right off 2 wires and that's it test to se if it works buckle everything back up and your done
Oven not holding a consistant temperature. Found the replacement part easily on you website.Thanks to your photo.
First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.
Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary screw, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.
Cooktop oil fire melted plastic parts; control defaced
Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless you are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive). To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...
Removed control knob. Removed back panel (3) screws with a nut driver. Removed two screws holding the burner switch. Followed the wiring exactly the way it was on the bad burner switch. Don’t forget to take a picture of the wiring before you start in case you get lost. Took about five minutes to change the switch. My wife is very happy with her operational front burner.