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Bottom element fell apart
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. ordered the part and connected the element back to the two wires replaced the two screws plugged in the stove turned on the oven and we were back in business,
Heating element literally blew apart during use one. We have no idea why,
First, pulled out the old heating element and all the peices that were left after it fell apart. Since when you pull out the old one, the wires it connects to tend to recess back into the oven wall, I had to pull out the oven and take the back cover off in order to push the wires and connectors back through the receptacle in the oven. This was really easy as you only have to remove 5 screws from the middle panel on the back of the oven rather than the entire oven back. Once the wires were back through, I just plugged in the new unit. The oven works just like new now. I'm sure I was able to save between $75 to $100 just for the service call by doing this myself.
removed two screws that hold the element in place and then removed the access rear panel it was much easier to disconnect the element than have to stick my head in the oven to gain access.time :15 minutes.
We ordered the part from PartSelect and received it the next day. Didn't even have to move the range out from the wall. Just unscrewed the two screws on the back wall of the stove that hold the bake element in place with a socket wrench, then pulled the old bake element and wires out about 2-3 inches so we could disconnect the old bake unit. The element was kind of hard to pull out, but after you pull it from the wires, just plug in the new bake unit, push the wires back in and put the screws back in. Oven was up and working again!
Bake unit caught fire and a 3 inch section burned away
Becuase of the fire we had used a chemical based fire extinguisher, which made a real mess in the whole main floor of the house. I removed the oven from the house and used a leaf blower to get rid of all the white chemical powder (like a baking soda of sorts). Once that issue was done, I removed the part in less than 5 minutes. Two screws to remove it and then unpluged the two wire clips from the back of the stove under the shield which also had 6 screws to remove. It took only 3 days to have a new one delivered and I installed it in less than 5 minutes. The oven works fine now. It took much longer to clean the house than fix the oven.
This was a very simple procedure. I removed the 2 screws in the oven itself (holding the element in place), then pushed the element through the back of the oven so the wires were exposed, then slipped off the wires, the male end from the female end, I then removed the entire element. I put the new element in the over, re-attached the wires, put the screws back in place, replaced the cover, and the oven was as good as new.
Removed power plug- disconnected wire, removed cover over wires two screws, and removed old heated strip, held in by two screws inside of oven Slide in new coil installed two screws, connected two wires replaced guard over wires, plugged in stove, cooked a rubarb pie, success
My friend's husband came over to help. I mentioned that after unscrewing the old bake assembly unit, we would have to capture the wires or they would slip into the back. Before he even had the screws undone, the wires did, indeed, slip into the back. He then removed the back panel and retrieved the wires, pushed them back through the insulation and clipped each of them onto the back assembly. However, the wire clips kept slipping off so he eventually had to criimp the clips to keep them tight on the ends of the bake assembly. That troubled me; what if in the future one of those clips comes loose while the oven is in use? Any suggestions on how to keep these connectors on tightly?
My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
The light socket cup could no longer hold the bracket that holds the light cover in place.
I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.
Oven no longer working after running the self clean option. Only Stove top burners worked
I began by turning off the breaker in the panel. Slide the oven out into the open area. Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel. Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8. Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB. Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.
