Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Burner spontaneously cycled without knob activation
First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.
I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.
The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.
Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.
Element blew hole in self then no power to burner.
Replaced burned element, did not fix no power problem. Ordered receptor replacement, replaced it, took less than 10 mminutes, but still no power to burned. Then ordered replacement switch, replacement too less than 10 minutes again and burner works fine.
My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.
Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.
Pull oven out away from the wall, unplugged from outlet, removed center cover by removing 5 sheet metal screws. disconnected thermostat sensor from control cable. Opened oven door and removed screw that holds thermostat sensor. Pulled thermostat sensor out replaced with new sensor. Plugged sensor in to control cable. Replace panel and screws. Then my wife made me clean the oven. I recommend making the repair when your wife is not home.
Oven no longer working after running the self clean option. Only Stove top burners worked
I began by turning off the breaker in the panel. Slide the oven out into the open area. Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel. Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8. Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB. Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.
when turn on the larger element would not come on, as the switch moves to the different settings it would light but not staying up.
remove the 4 screw from the back of the control panel take the knob from the front and remove the two screws then raise the rear panel cover up. you can pull the switch from there make picture note of where the plug ups are for replacement its cool
The repair was very easy to do. Our oven was showing the F2 error code, which is associated with an over-temperature fault. Upon inspection, the oven was warm, but definitely not beyond the temperature threshold. I researched the issue and found this temperature sensor. Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back panel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.
1. Unplug the range power cord from the outlet. 2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop. 3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock. 4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel. 5. Using a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place. 6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded. 7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board. 8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. 9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board. 10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board. 11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board. 12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board. 13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range. 14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.
This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.
Removed screws holding temp sensor, pulled wire out from behind wall until found connector, disconnected old sensor. Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.
I turned off the circuit breaker and unplugged the stove. I removed the back panel and marked the location of the wires on the new oven clock control. I detached the wires and removed the old card. I installed the new one and reconnected the wires. I plugged the stove and turned on the circuit breaker. All the lights came on and the oven worked fine. I reinstalled the back panel and it took me less than thirty minutes to complete the job.