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Original water level switch broke
It was really easy. Only needed 2 tools. Took off the back of the control panel with a nutdriver and phillips head screw driver (4 screws). Removed the old switch with phillips head screw driver (2 screws) & pulled off the nob & tube. Installed the new switch, reconnected the tube and nob. Replace the back and reset the control panel and my wife was all set to go with the laundry. One last note, I had to pull the machine away from the wall a couple of feet to reach the back. After putting it back together I pushed the machine back into place. Remember to re-level the machine by pulling the back up about a foot or so and placing back down. The self leveling mechanism underneath will level the machine automatically for you.
Washer tub would not spin or agitate and made a high pitch spinning noise during those cycles.
Basically I followed the great instructions provided on the Part Select webpages. I would consider myself to have more common sense than mechanical skill. I didn't want to have to keep going back to purchase more parts so I decided to buy the motor coupler (under $5), new clutch assembly (Under $30), new motor (under $160). The shaft on the original motor wore down to a cylindrical shape which should have been more of a rectangular shape to fit precisely into the motor coupler and provide the grip strength for the washer tub to spin. Usually the no spin problem is linked to a faulty motor coupler. I was glad that I had to removed the motor to reach the motor coupler because in my case the coupler had not failed. That is when I saw the motor shaft had worn. Since I had all the new parts I replaced them all and since 6/13/19 the washer is running like new. Oh, the problem was most likely caused by someone in my family "overloading" the wash machine one too many times over 11 years. Guy's / Gal's you can do this and save yourself from buying a new washer for between $850 - $1,200. My repair expense was under $240 including tax and next day delivery of my parts. Thanks Part Select !!!! Neil
Used your exploded view of the area to determine the problem-found the broken part and reassembled following the drawing. I felt like a pro after a test and kept my wife happy. [only lost a few days waiting for the parts which arrived as expected]
After reading other repair stories I did it like they said. I disconnected all the hoses and drained as much water as I could. The top came apart easily with a regular screwdriver, a 1/2 in drive with extension, and a 14 or 15mm deep socket. The spanner nut came off easiest with several short, quick blows (punch and hammer, counterclockwise). In my case a good wack seemed to be soaked up by the wash tub springs. Be careful not to chip the tub.
I laid the washer, front down, onto a couple a 2x6's. I supported between the tub and body with small 2x4 scraps. The motor/trans/pump came off easily after disconnection the 2 hoses (towels handy) and wiring. After the 3 screws, and some wiggling, the assembly slid out nicely. The coupler came out after snapping the springs off to remove the pump and motor. A 1/4 nut driver and regular screwdriver assisted. Watch how the pump comes off. You might want to mark its orientation with a marker or something. Make sure you get the new coupler on all the way with some taps on the CENTER where the shaft is. Reassemble in the reverse order. You'll know why I suggested marking the water pump.
Watch the order/orientation of the springs, clips, and washer. The clips came off with a screwdriver and pliers. It's always nice to have a rag on them when removing, they like to shoot off and land in the spot that's hardest to find, like under the dryer. My clutch was assembled with the right spring and slid right on. Don't forget about the plastic washer, snap it in good. The plastic piece still on the washer was simple. I opened up a nose pliers and put it on each side of the clip then gave it a hit. It came off with minimal effort and didn't spin on the shaft like pushing on one side with a screwdriver.
During reassembly I put a very light film of grease on the shaft. That washer with the tabs gave me trouble at first. I put a good film of grease on the side with the tabs to hold it in place, with the tabs down, in the clip. Otherwise when sliding the assembly back together it comes loose and you won't get the motor/trans all the way in. Then it all has to come back out and you'll wonder what the heck is keeping the transmission from seating in all the way. You might even get it all together, figuring the motor or tub has to turn to get it to seat right. You may even try running a no clothes load and get stuck with a tub full of water. Ask me how I know.
Reverse everything to reassemble. Make sure you get the springs tight that hold the hoses on. I was worried about over tightening the plastic nut with a 1/2 drive. Run no-clothes load, large, hot with soap. I think tipping it over loosened some stuff that was stuck in between the tub and basket. No, it wasn't grease from the shaft, light film. Anyway, I'll waste a washer full of hot soapy water to avoid the, "Um..what's this on my new shirt".
I didn't mean for this to be so long winded, but I was leary about tackling this job at first. I know my way around the garage/cars, but never tried appliances before. I pictured it'd be apart for weeks and I'd have to call a repair man. Then the "I told you so" look would come. You all know what I mean. I just want to cover as much as possible and encourage others while having them avoid any troubles.
Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.
Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
Lid trigger went and fried both plug and connector
Purchased lid trigger elsewhere but got the connector on line here after being told I would need to purchase complete wiring harness to correct. Once lid trigger was in i stripped the three wires that went to lid trigger and pushed thru the back side of the connector. Then I plugged into trigger. Now washer works again. Very easy to do.
I removed dispenser for softener, then pulled cap inside upper agitator, I was able to get my fingers in the grips and pull firmly to unseat it. (disgard o-ring it comes with the repair kit). I then removed the bolt from center and grabbed the bottom of the lower agitator and gave it a good tug to release the whole unit. If that don't work you can get a flat tip screwdriver between the two sections and pry up slightly. Once it was all loose I removed the upper assembly taking care to to remember how all the pieces were assembled. replaced everything in the same order and when it came time to reinstall the inner cap and seal I made sure I put the cap in straight. Also if the seal doesn't cooperate you can use a little liquid soap to lubricate it. you dont want to use grease because it could possibly get on the clothes (the softener sits in there)! You can use the tip of the screwdriver to tuck the oring in if that doesn't work but be very careful
Unplugged washer. Pulled the washer away from the wall & leaned it back against the wall to access the underneath side of the washer. Disconnected water hoses to the pump with water pump pliers. Have drain pan handy to catch the water, approximately 1 qt. Remember which hose goes to the proper place. Removed two retaining screws/straps allowing the motor to be seperated from the transmission. There is enough slack in the wiring to allow you to drop the motor without disconnecting. You do not need to remove the water pump. Removed old coupling & replaced with the new one. Make sure you use the "new style" replacement coupler or you will be doing this repair again very soon! Schematics are available online.
The coupling, made of plastic and rubber, on our Whirlpool washer gave out. Done the same repair nine years ago and knew what to do. Here is a short summery:
1. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the control panel on top of the machine in place
2. unscrew the screws that connect the housing with the back panel
3. pop the 2 clips under the control panel to release the back panel
4. with the back panel loose disconnect everything that is pushed, screwed or clamped on and take the back panel off (don't worry about remembering where things go, everything can go only one way together again)
5. slightly lift the housing of the washer in the back to remove, that gives you access to the coupling in front of the machine
6. I personally like to put the washer on its back and do the repair that way. However, if you want to leave it standing that is gets you there too.
7. take the screws out of the brackets that hold the pump (the thing with the two hoses attached to it) in place and snap off the brackets; lift up the pump and put aside
8. you can now remove the broken coupling
9. check for any fragments and clean off what needs to be cleaned
10. replace the coupling
11. reverse the order of steps 1 to 7; make sure that the all electrical connections and hoses are connected!
On this model, no need to tip washer on back. Tilt console back and disconnect lid switch. Remove two clips holding back to top of washer (under console). Then remove top and front as directed in the video. The pump is accessible from the front of the unit, just below the tub. Hose clamps are easy to remove/replace. Took more time to wipe inside of washer clean than to remove/replace the water pump. Total time was just over 30 minutes.
So i replaced the above parts pulled gearbox put new oil in all looked good but when i tryed it filled started spinning for a few sec.then quit again?was makeing a clicking sound so i layed on the floor and the drive coupling was spinning so i took the water pump off and it started agitating and spinning. found about a 6 in.thin piece of wire in it, dont know where it came from but installed a new pump and it works like a new one !!!
Washer wouldn't start at times unless the lid was gently "slammed" shut.
First unplug the washing machine. Then used a putty knife pushed under the endcap area to release the clips holding the top console down, then lifted the front of the console and tipped it back. Held it in that position with a short piece of wood.
The lid switch was visible right there on the left. Then unplugged the switch, removed the metal screw holding the ground wire, pressed the locking tab on the switch, lifted the washer lid about 3 or 4 inches, and removed the switch. Installation was the reverse procedure. Total time about 10 to 15 minutes.
Washer was leaking.. determined it was center gasket
Completely dismantled washer per video , replaced gasket and spanner nut, then re-assembled washer. I’m a 58 year old female. It was tough. Main issue was that video was for dif. Model washer. Had to figure out some things myself.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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cams chewed up
popped off softener cap, easy. Pulled out clear plastic sealer, removed nut holding agitator in, pulled out agitator. Removed cam holder, new cam bearing etc in, reverse removal done, piece of cake.
