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Light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
It was a snap using the instructions given. The key is getting into the unit. I did have to use a multimeter to find the failed switch since there are two of that type.
lights under microwave (that we use as a kitchen night light went out.
undid plate exposing bulbs. Bulbs were blown to the extent that I could not see the size or wattage. Went to website, got the data ... including how to find the model and serial number plate, entered the info, looked at the exploded drawing, ordered 2 new bulbs and 3 days later they showed up at our door FedEX.
Remove the microwave cover. Requires a phillips screwdriver and a torx security bit/nut driver (there are two security type screws on the back...guess they don't want you to do this at home!). I had to buy the a security bit set (about $7). The diode is easily accessible on the right side under the fan. Requires removing on small phillips screw and unplugging on electrical connection. GE provides some instructions in an envelope on top (after cover removed). There is a warning/instruction to discharge the capacitor before service. This was not a problem for me. Actual diode replacement took 30 seconds. Whole job = 15 minutes.
Microwave light bulb glass broke in socket and could not be removed from socket.
Simply unscrew the bottom panel of the microwave device (it swings downward when opening - there are hinges on the back to protect it from falling down). Remove the old light socket (which is modular and is screwed in place)from the connectors and then replace it with the new light socket. That's it
Very simple disconnect light socket unit from snap in power supply replace socket with bulb screwed in reattach & back in business. Your service in supplying needed parts was par excellence. Thanks again
Microwave would not turn on. Lights and fan worked fine. Before the microwave stopped completely, it would turn the microware fan on even when door was open. I read the reviews and they were exactly the same issue that others were facing. Once I opened the front panel and got to the switches it was easy to figure out which switch was bad as it was the one that was soft (When clicking it). It was hard to take it out though (it seemed stuck). So, I used a plier to yank it out. I put in the new switch and everything worked just great! I would like to thank other comments that were left on the site to make my task much easier. Thank you (to the commenters on PartsSelect), you not only saved me money, but also ensured that I learn about the microwave more and give me the confidence that I could fix it.
Took screw holding lens cover out, dropped cover down, unscrewed old bulb, screwed new bulb in socket. Screwed cover back in place. This is the third bulb in this socket, the other bulb is original.
Easy as can be. Removed one screw on the glass cover, removed two burned out bulbs and reinstalled two new bulbs, reinstalled the cover and all is well now. The best part - my 'supervisor' is happy that she can see to cook again!
Because the microwave is old and the bulbs, I believe, had never been changed I carefully tried to unscrew the bulb. However, when I went to unscrew the bulbs the end of the bulb broke off and remained in the socket. I used a few different tools then remembered that sometimes a raw potatoe can be used to unscrew the remainder of the bulb, but to no avail. Finally had to unscrew the whole underside of the microwave to remove the broken bulb. May I suggest that you have the socket face away from the wall to screw in the bulb instead of the socket pointing toward the wall. You need to know yoga just to manuver the bulb into the socket.
Turn off main power bracker. Removed fan vent, removed control panel, disconnect leads to the three monitor switches. Replaced the secondary switch (top). Reversed procedures.
