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Light out
Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.
Fan motor was making an intermittent (very annoying) squealing noise.
Located the model number on the inside wall of the unit. Wanted to make sure to order the correct product.Because of the age of the refrigerator I ordered the rubber mounting grommets. In this model the mounting frame is built at an angle that makes the removal and reinstall very easy. Remove two screws and the motor is loose. The fan blade easily pulls off the shaft of the motor . Clean up the fan and reassemble.
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
Fridge never cuts off.freeze everything inside of fridge.
To remove the temp sensor.2 Phillip head screws not remove the cover inside fridge .the temp control knob cover.removed that and unplugged switch.installed new switch.reinstalled cover.
unplugged appliance. removed cover from back of fridge. unplugged wiring to condenser. pulled fan blade from motor. removed two bolts from fan bracket.removed fan blade and then motor. cleaned fan blade and all surrounding parts.installed new fan and blade. plugged fan motor back in re-installed cover on back of fridge.plugged fridge back in.motor is now nice and quiet.
Well the repair would have consisted of simply removing the old fan, and installing the new one, however, the replacement fan sent had a female connector on it, when it should have been a male connector. So, I had to take the connector off the old fan, and splice it onto the new one. This turned a really simple job into more of a project, which I was not planning on.
Started removing screws until I got to the fan (it's easy). Then just took out the old fan and put the new one back in the same way. The only challenging part was putting the clamp back on the fan, but I finally got it. The fridge is finally quiet and we can sleep again! PartSelect made it really easy and they were incredibly fast. Thanks!
First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.
Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.
Refigerator was amking a loud noise when the fan came on to cool.
Followed the on line instructions and found the repair to be very easy. Took longer to remove the food from the freezer than to switch out the fan motor.
40 year old refrigerator brittle light switch fell apart
with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP
Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.
Followed the steps on the linked video. Absolutely accurate and easy to follow. Beware: Don't drop a screw down the opening after removing the styrofoam block.
