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I followed advice from other posts on this web site. The only thing additional I'd recommend is to take pictures of assemblies before you disassemble them. A neighbor gave me that useful tip. It should be noted that I first noticed my refrigerator failure back on June 22, 2012. I hired a reputable local repair service to fix it. They replaced the Defrost heater (item 618) and charged me $ 208.14. Then on August 22nd, I noticed that the problem resurfaced. I decided to fix it myself using info from site. The repair went well, and I'm hopeful that it will stay repaired. Kudos to this site!
Gasket was not staying in place; worn and broken from sticking.
Pulled the old gasket off, approximately 5 seconds. Put the new one in, starting from the corners, with no tools, approximately 2 minutes. Coated gasket with a thin film of petroleum jelly, approx. 1 minute.
I used the socket set to remove pannel that allowed me to have access to the evaporator fan. Once the fan and it's container was visible, I removed the entire fan container using the socket set. I took the fan out of the container, removed the damage blade and the damaged fan grommets. I then replace the old blade with the new blade and put the fan and the compartment back together. I am not very handy so if I am able to do this, anybody can. Ps. I was very very pleased with the services I received from PartSelect and would encourage others to use them - must admit I was very suspicious at first.
Plastic slide for snack pan right side cracked/broke
Only took a screwdriver to take two screws out & install new slide with the two existing screws. Very easy. Took less than 5 minutes. Great website I found on Google right away, just by searching for refridgerator parts. After ordering part, only took a few days to come in.
Using Google search engine I was able to quickly locate the replacement rack for the refrigerator. When it arrived, I installed it by attaching it to the interior frame of the refrigerator.
Freezer And Frig Both Warm And Compressor Would Not Run
I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.
Looking at the schematic I found in the back of the unit, it appeared that there were not many parts associated with the problem. I removed the Overload/PTC and run Capacitor as a single unit. Although the capacitor was listed as the most likely problem part I decided to order both items since small particles of non-ferous material were falling out of the Overload/PTS plastic case. I installed both parts as a unit and plugged the refrigerator in. The compressor did not come on so I figured that there were other problems. After about 15 minutes I returned to the unit and found it running. It is now quieter than it has ever been. I now feel that the defective part was the Overload/PTC unit and not the capacitor.
I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.