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racks had rusted but dishwasher still worked perfectly
bottom rack was easy as just pull out and replace. Upper rack had to move front part of the brackets to pull out rack which did require some figuring out but I did finally get it and once I figured out one side the other was easy.
My dishwasher stills works perfect, but most of the upright prongs on my upper dish rack had broken and fallen off. I couldn't see buying another dishwasher so I entered my model # on the Part Select Website. I was easy, and three days later the new one was delivered to my doorstep.
Replacing the rack was a "no-brainer". I simply removed the plastic keepers on the ends of the roller racks with a screw driver, pulled the old one out, slid the new one in, and then replaced the keepers with pliers. It couldn't have been easier.
If you are replacing an overheated solenoid that had the plastic melt, don't forgot to order a armature and link as well. I made this mistake and had to wait another week to fix the dishwasher. The repair wasn't too bad. The most time consuming part was putting the E-clip retainer ring back on the diverter shaft. Tipping the dishwasher back some really helped for me to have more room to see and work with.
I ordered parts before opening. My theory was to have the parts so that the dishwasher was not apart for longer than necessary, in the hope of avoiding the wrath of momma bear who just wants a new one... Once I opened up the door I realized the spring for the main lever arm had broken its mount. I drilled a new hole and reattached the spring. I did not need any parts. However, the original parts corresponding to the three parts I ordered were all beat up and brittle, so I was happy to replace anyway. I did not even explain, she is happy the cup looks new and is happy with the dishwasher. It even says Cascade on it, almost like an upgrade :). If your cup does not latch I would order the three parts I did and also order the lever spring. It was very corroded after 30 years, so I would have replaced if I purchased it. Next time.. :)
Lower Tray wheels keep falling off and wobbly. Was a source of daily distress and complaining
We considered buying a new lower rack for the dishwasher which we were told was a new dishwasher when we took over the house. The wheels were constantly falling off when sliding out the tray. They wobbled as well. With the weight of dishes in the rack and malfunctioning wheels, it was a disaster! We found your site on the internet and instead of a new rack we decided to order a whole new set of 8 wheels and axle roller studs. Installation was easy. It's like having a new dishwasher! Tray rolls in/out effortlessly. Great solution for the prices, fast delivery. Everybody is happy! Thanks.
Part was an exact match. Make sure to use plumber's tape on all threads. Had to really tighten fittings to prevent leaks. Screws are a little difficult to get to. Test for leaks first, before final installation.
There are videos on YouTube that demonstrate the repair process better than I can type. I will say I'm not certain why the dishwasher wasn't draining other than when I removed the chamber collection and repositioned the ball filter it would work as it should until the next time. Replacing the sump, chamber collection, and ball filter was a shot in the dark. The tub insulation was an improvement on noise. The first cycle seemed to be draining water better. Overall the removal and installation of the parts was not difficult.
I opened the D/W door, used needle nose pliers to remove the old baffles. They come right out. I cleaned the area using paper towels and installed the new baffles. They just sit in the corners with nothing holding them. Simple job.
Based on information gleaned from the internet, I suspected that the drain solenoid might have melted. I took apart the solenoid assembly and checked it out. I found that some of the plastic on the inside of the solenoid had indeed melted, making it impossible for the plunger that opens and closes the drain valve to move in and out smoothly and completely. I removed the old solenoid, replaced it with the new one, and the dishwasher worked perfectly.
Followed the instructions and it was easy. Made the washer seem brand new!...It is the best solutions for a small budget. We used CLR to wash out the washer workings and it really left a sparkle on the dishes... I am so glad you don't change the models so much that parts can't be exchanged when they wear...
Dishwasher would not drain. Used air to confirm drain hose was clear. Traced problem to Drain Solenoid
After determining the drainage issue was caused by the solenoid, (by process of elimination; the hose was clear, drain opening clear, diverter moving freely, power to solenoid present during rinse cycle= bad solenoid. Solenoid showed signs of overheating upon internal inspection...) I transfered the bracket assembly to the new solenoid, re-attached bracket to diverter reservoir, connected spring and power and Did a test run. Solenoid works great! I did notice the shaft on which the diverter pivots leaking just a bit while moving the shaft. You might consider oredering a new gasket for it if you plan to replace the solenoid. Pretty easy repair. Especially considering the complexity of some other possible problems! Good luck!
After twelve years the prongs on the top rack began to break and rust.
I ordered a replacement from partselect.com and received it in just three days. The only difficult part was deciding how to remove the white plastic end caps on the sliding rails. Finally, I took a small screwdrive and pried out the crimps in the metal, pulled the old caps out, inserted the new ones, and squeezed the metal together again using needle-nosed pliers. Nothing to it! Note: The configuration of the new rack isn't exactly like the original (size and placement of the prongs differ somewhat) but it fits perfectly and works great.
There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.
I popped off the front track stops--pretty easy with a little twisting and slid the basket out. A little leverage with a screw driver and the roller axle slipped off easily. Popped the new ones on, slid the basket back into the track and popped the stops in place and the job was done in under 15 minutes.
First we got all the water out of the bottom of the dishwasher. Removed the old, melted drain solenoid. Very important - DO NOT THROW ANYTHING AWAY. The solenoid that removed was melted; however I had to reuse the springs, brackets and plunger from the old solenoid. I had to scrape and clean (with a solvent) the metal plunger to reuse it. Once I got it cleaned up and re-used the old parts, mounting it was easy. However, getting that tiny lockwasher on the shaft was a real pain in the ass. Finally I got it together and it worked great.
