Pulled unit out from counter (never had dishwasher issues before) to see if there was anything obvious with wiring or anything. Noticed that some little piece on the bottom looked to have melted (later discovered to be the drain solenoid). Removed the obviously defective part and looked it up on line. Found the name of it on Part Select's website then started shopping for best price. Came back to Part Select because the price was the cheapest I could find. Two - Three days later received part and put it back on and had the dishwasher back in place and in use within about 10-15 minutes. Marking my first ever dishwasher repair. :)
It was tricky to get the old rack off. Usually you can unclip the clips closest to the front wheels to pull the rack out. However, there is an area behind one of the wheels that you can kind of release and than pull the rack out. You then have to slide out the funnel/fan piece from the middle. That piece slides/ snaps in the middle of the the new rack. Then slide the new rack in place, re attach the release used to slide oldrack out. That is it !!
Replaced the upper dishwasher rack due to rusting.
To remove the upper rack, twist the support rail end caps toward the center of the machine and slightly downward. The caps will come off and you can slide the new rack into place. Reverse the process to replace the end caps. One of mine broke and I will need to order replacements. The original rack is no longer available. The replacement, which is the only one GE offers, has less storage space and is not as sturdy. It bends downward when full. I am very disappointed and recommend not replacing the rack unless you have no other choice.
My son found a water leak and cut the water supply off. He then pulled the machine from under the counter at which time I examined the valve under pressure and saw the leak. We cut the water off again and after tripping the circuit breaker we pulled the electrical connector and undid the mounting bracket which made getting the lines off the valve much simpler. New valve in hand I attached the lines and did a test then remounted the bracket and attached the electric. Easy as pie!
Dishwasher is 5 yrs old. Never really washed right sometimes had sand on the top rack. 1 month ago started leaking from bottom put towels down and did only 1 load a day. Floor starting to rot my husband pulled out the dishwasher saw where it was leaking took the piece out saw it was cracked and repl
Unscrewed 2 screws from under the counter, pulled out dishwasher. Saw where it was leaking. Took wires loose, took the rack out, unscrew the white mesh, took out the dishwasher sump housing product saw a crack and ordered the piece. For anyone out there make sure you turn the electric power switch off before you attempt to fix anything!!!!!!
Pulled the basket out the appliance and took what was left of the roller off and replaced them and slid the basket back onto the slide channel into the appliance. Then snapped the end caps on. Almost too simple. Less money than it costs to have the service man ring your door bell.
At first I found some water on my hardwood floor by the dishwasher, I thought that I might spilled't the day before, then it hapened again, so I remover the front lower cover for the dishwasher and I found water under the dishwasher, then I turned on the machine and I found a pin hall water leak from the water inlet valve. I turned the machine off, then I closed the water valve under the sink, then I disconected the power plug from the valve, the diconected the water supply copper pipe, then diconected the house from the valve to dishwasher, then got the part# from the valve sticker and the model# for the dishwasher from inside of the door. after that I went online and I got the valve. make sure to try more than one website because they all have differant prices, and Parts Select was the lowest one.
Once the new motor and pump kit arrived. I removed the dishwasher, turned it upside down and replaced the motor and pump with the new one per the directions. Difficulty came in feeding the electrical wire/plug back through the cabinets. Once done, turned on the dishwasher, filled the tub, then manually moved the dial to drian. The water still would not drain from the tub. I searched further for the problem. Here it is; Found the air gap tube was plugged with food. Once I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the air gap, the tub drained fast and everything works great. So, I hope you folks put this up in your troubleshooting section for others to check before buying a pump and motor kit. If you had, I would have been able to check out the air gap, clean it out first before spending $140.00 for a pump and motor kit I didn't need. Anyway, lessons learned..Jeff
Leaking at bottom of door edge - ordered new gaskets all around - no sense in replacing one at a time and paying extra shipping. Removed screws on the inside of the door panel and it lifted off easily. bottom corner of gasket was black and that is where some of the leaking was from. I replaced the door seal and ran the washer and it still leaked.... Pulled the washer out from the enclosure and it was quite wet back there - so I wanted to pull the washer to dry and clean things up - turned off power and water and remove screws at top edge that secure it to countertop. Insulation wrap was wet - Removed that and put it into the sun to dry - no sign of where water was leaking - reconnected water and power and ran a cycle with the washer pulled out - slowly leaking from top of washer where hose enters the top sprayer. Was easy to get to the sprayer - two little screws hold it in - removed the hose that feeds the sprayer and it was disintegrating - crumbly- I ordered the part and put it all back together and used a washer at the sprayer/hose junction to compress the fitting in hopes it would hold until the replacement came - it did. The replacement installed in 10 mins and did not need to disconect water or power. I would suggest replacing this hose at the same time you replace door seals based on condition of my hose.
