I slide the oven out from the counter and unpluged it. I removed all the oven racks. I then removed the machine screws that held the sheet metal that covered the back of the unit. This made it a lot easier to disconnect the long oven sensor wire and put the wire through the insulation. I removed the two screws on the inside of the oven that held the sensor onto the inside rear wall of the oven. The old sensor did not test too bad but the temperature is reaching the set temperature. I still had to adjust the oven temp up ten degrees using the control panel. I have learned that it takes a few cycles of the element going off and on during the warming to reach the desired set temperature. One more issue is that the buzzer goes off signaling that the set temperature has been reached when it has not. When I set it for 350 F the buzzerr goes off at 280 F and I have a good oven thermometer. I own three oven thermometers and they all read the same. We use to have nothing but Maytag appliances but no more. We have had issues with Maytag front loading washers and ranges. PartSelect is great. Good prices and fast delivery.
Oven temperature lagging set temperature by almost 100F
Removed frame to cabinet lag screws Slid oven out of cabinet (required because wire harness could not be pulled through inside of oven) Removed two screws holding attaching sensor inside oven Uncoupled wire harness Installed new sensor in reverse order
Unfortunately, neither the new bake element or sensor fixed the problem, so I just ordered the more expensive control board -- hope that does it.
Removed two screws, unplugged the old unit, plugged in the new, screwed the new in. Job done. Would have been less than five minutes if I hadn't kept dropping the screws.
Husband got on partselect.com and read reviews, we ordered a long oven sensor kit. When it came in the mail, I took it out and look at it, decided I could probably switch the part.... and so I did. Easy Breezy ... and it worked well
The hardest part was deciding if this part would fix the problem. The upper oven became unusable. Both elements worked fine until reaching temperature. The oven would not come back on after that. I took two screws out. Then I pulled the wires out and unsnapped the coupling. The install was reverse. I just snapped the coupling in place and replaced the two screws. All works fine now. Saved a couple thousand as wife was prepared to buy a new one.
Only 1, 4 and 7 worked on the number pad. Presets did not work.
Turned off electric power. Remove the front control panel. Four screws under each burner knob where removed. Four screws on the bottom removed. One screw on each end removed. Ground wire removed. All connectors to the control panel removed. This allows the panel to be taken to a safe work area. The control module is removed by taking out two screws and removing the two ribbon connectors from the key pad unit. The old key pad is removed by using a finger nail to pry it off. Pull the ribbon connectors through the slots. Clean the area with alcohol prep pads and wipe dry with a paper towel. Remove the protective paper from the back of the new key pad. Push the two ribbon cables through the slots. Carefully position the new pad in the indentation. Press to insure it adheres properly. Re-install the control module and connect the ribbon cables. Re-connect the connectors from the range to the control module. Re-connect the ground wire. Re-install the control panel with the ten screws that were removed before. Turn on the power and test. Remove the the protective film from the face of the key pad before use.
The feedback from other customers was excellent. It does come apart in layers, and it helped me to number each layer with a sticky note as I dismantled it. I also kept the screws for each layer right next to the layer, so that I knew how many screws each layer used. The only thing I can add is that the tabs to remove the innermost glass from the frame are on one of the shorter sides of the rectangular frame. The tabs are part of the frame, and when you bend them outward the side of the frame detaches and you can replace the glass easily. In addition to the #1 Philips screwdriver, all I needed was a pair of pliers to bend the tabs.
Removed two screws holding oven sensor in place. Haad to remove part of the back to access wires. Found existing wires had burnt up, and had to reterminate same. Installed new sensor, making sure the leads did not come in contact with the rear of oven compartment. (This may have been what caused failure to begin with)
