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Old motor was not resetting back to proper position halting ice production.
Removed the three motor screws pulled off old motor put new motor in place replaced screws and re-installed. It was producing ice three hours later. I originally tried to obtian these parts directly from Whirlpool in which twice they shipped me the wrong parts. Finally gave up on them and entered the whilrpool part number which crossreferenced to new part number which was correct the first try. Thank you!
Wife learned you can overload the cheese and fresh veggie trays and the plastic rails broke. Repair required removing parts from the old crisper frame -- no experience and no instructions. Had to study broken part and figure out how to remove parts. Released catches with a knife and, by trial and error, figured out how to install rescued components on new crisper frame with minor damage and frustration.
First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.
This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.
Weak water delivery to water dispenser and ice maker and loud thumping sound.
Gain access to rear of refrigerator. Use protective board to prevent marring floor. Unplug refrigerator. Turn off water supply and depressurize line. Remove old water filter head. Disconnect filter head inlet water supply line located behind the refrigerator. Disconnect the filter head filtered water return line at the water valve. From refrigerator interior, disconnect the lower filter water cover. Press the outer cover away from filter head until one end is free of the water filter head tang and remove cover from second tang. Push the Styrofoam "block fill" toward the rear of the refrigerator to remove it. If you try to remove this from the outside by pulling it, it will likely break. Pull water filter head assembly to remove it. Install new part by reversing the steps.
Clicking noise, getting louder. Then stopped cooling
1. Empty your fridge. Lighter is easier to move and this is the hardest step in the fix. 2. Move your fridge so you can get behind it. Unplug the fridge. 3. Use a 1/4in nut driver to remove the screws from the back panel. 4. Remove the back panel. 5. Locate the compressor (big cylinder, usually black) and find the capacitor (PS11757023) and start dev (PS11750123) plugged into the side of the compressor. 6. There is a steel spring restraint wire, remove this. 7. Remove the pin connector (plastic w/ wires going to it) by pressing and pulling gently. Remove the old capacitor and start dev. 8. Assemble the new capacitor and start dev to each other. 9. Plug the pin connector into the new replacement components. 10. Align the start dev to the location of the old components. There is a 3 pin outlet that aligns to the 3 plug holes on the start dev. Align the plug then push gently but firmly to seat the components back together. 11. Reinstall the restraint wire. 12. Reinstall the pack panel. 13. Put your refrigerator back in place and load it up! You're all done!
Needed to replace gaskets in refrigerator door as they were cracking
Beware - the website does not indicate that doors are different sizes on this model refrigerator. Not paying attention I ordered 2 of the same size gasket which only fit the right side door - had to send one back and reorder left side from Whirpool directly.
The actual installation is very easy. It may take a day or so the gasket to feel like its actually making a good seal.
first I removed the panels to see if the coils were getting frosty . Then I noticed that the fan was not spinning. I tested voltage to the fan and it was hot. I ordered the new fan put it in placve and, voila!. Fixed my fride for under 50 bucks
(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!
First turned off the water at the valve. Next I undid the 5 screws holding the plate that holds the pump. Next disconnected the power connectors, then the water lines. Next undid the screw holding the pump, removed pump. Next, mounted the new pump to the plate, this was tricky because it has to fit kind of upside down, so you have to wrangle it into the proper position then align the screw hole. Next, secured it to the plate with the screw, re-connected the water lines, then the power. Before mounting it back to the fridge, I tested to see if it worked, well, it didn't. My heart sank. I re-checked all connections, I redid the entire process, disconnected and re-connected and still did not work. I researched the problem online and someone posted maybe the water filter might be clogged or defective. So I removed the water filter and put the stop plug in, and it worked perfectly. I went and exchanged the filter and plugged it in and still had the same problem. I am now suspecting the filter receptacle is the fault, but we will do without that for the time being. But the pressure is much better so changing the pump was still necessary. All in all a very interesting repair. I learned a lot about how the system works and now I need to replace the damper, it is very noisy.
Refrigerator not defrosting properly. Evaporator froze on three different occasions.
I watched the video provided on-line in your website, which was excellent. The information provided gave me everything I needed to change the board. I already had experience handling control boards and was aware of the static precautions; however, your paperwork was very good detailing how to program the new board. The only small problem I had was reinstalling the temp sensor in its bracket. The lead was very short. Other than that, all went well! The project took between 20 and 30 minutes.
Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one. But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.