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The ice maker stopped working
First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.
This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.
Needed to replace gaskets in refrigerator door as they were cracking
Beware - the website does not indicate that doors are different sizes on this model refrigerator. Not paying attention I ordered 2 of the same size gasket which only fit the right side door - had to send one back and reorder left side from Whirpool directly.
The actual installation is very easy. It may take a day or so the gasket to feel like its actually making a good seal.
Clicking noise, getting louder. Then stopped cooling
1. Empty your fridge. Lighter is easier to move and this is the hardest step in the fix. 2. Move your fridge so you can get behind it. Unplug the fridge. 3. Use a 1/4in nut driver to remove the screws from the back panel. 4. Remove the back panel. 5. Locate the compressor (big cylinder, usually black) and find the capacitor (PS11757023) and start dev (PS11750123) plugged into the side of the compressor. 6. There is a steel spring restraint wire, remove this. 7. Remove the pin connector (plastic w/ wires going to it) by pressing and pulling gently. Remove the old capacitor and start dev. 8. Assemble the new capacitor and start dev to each other. 9. Plug the pin connector into the new replacement components. 10. Align the start dev to the location of the old components. There is a 3 pin outlet that aligns to the 3 plug holes on the start dev. Align the plug then push gently but firmly to seat the components back together. 11. Reinstall the restraint wire. 12. Reinstall the pack panel. 13. Put your refrigerator back in place and load it up! You're all done!
first I removed the panels to see if the coils were getting frosty . Then I noticed that the fan was not spinning. I tested voltage to the fan and it was hot. I ordered the new fan put it in placve and, voila!. Fixed my fride for under 50 bucks
(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!
Refrigerator not defrosting properly. Evaporator froze on three different occasions.
I watched the video provided on-line in your website, which was excellent. The information provided gave me everything I needed to change the board. I already had experience handling control boards and was aware of the static precautions; however, your paperwork was very good detailing how to program the new board. The only small problem I had was reinstalling the temp sensor in its bracket. The lead was very short. Other than that, all went well! The project took between 20 and 30 minutes.
Went on line to find replacement valve. Received the new part and compared to broken part. Both the same. CAREFULLY removed the broken valve. Paying attention to how it came off. CAREFULLY put it on the same way it came off. This is a plug and play part. Just had to reconnect the water line. Saved at least 75 dollars. Easy to find the part on your site.
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one. But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
First, selecting the right part is more difficult than the repair. My Kenmore is an outdated model actually manufactured by Whirlpool.
Once I got the part I relaxed the gasket with a hair dryer - an important step suggested by PS. I then took old of the old gasket and removed it. The new one fits in the channel. Just press and make it is completely installed and flush.
Removed the top door hinge cover. Remover the four 12mm hex screws. Lifted empty door off bottem hinge support. Removed old door closure. Put some silicon lub on the new closure and installed. Reversed the removal steps.
But this did not fix the problem. Will have to remove the door and inspect the inside of the door's lower hinge assembly.
To keep from having to pay the appliance repairman $100.00 for a diagnostic fee I just started replacing parts that were known for causing this problem. First I replaced the compressor switch and capacitor that didn't work so then I replaced the damper controller then I replaced the control board then I saw that the evaporator fan wasn't spinning so I replaced the evaporator fan motor and the bimetal defrost thermostat. That was the problem I wish I would have checked that first. But it works like new now.
Old gasket was pulled off with ease. New gasket came folded in-half in cardboard box and was flattened in several places. It was reshaped with ease with the heat from ny wife's hair dryer. Insrallatint took about 5 minutes and seal was perfect. Took less than 15 minutes total.
Ice maker motor would run continuously but the blades would not turn and no ice came out.
I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it. I unplugged the unit from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.
