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Ice maker not making ice.
Got the right part on the second try but am so happy I did it myself. Easy install 3 screws and a plug. A little hard to reach in bottom drawer freezer but making great ice now.
I followed the remove and replace instructions in the Part Sect video when I ordered the seal. Pulled out the old seal by hand and installed the new seal. No tools needed, very easy. Took 10 minutes at most.
My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.
I tested the ice maker first and got no response. So I bought the new ice maker and unplugged the connector in the back, loosened the 2 screws up top and took the bottom screw out. I took out the old one and then plugged the new one in and hung it back on the 2 loosened screws and put the bottom screw in and tightened the screws. I have to say it’s working great! Have plenty of ice again. Saved a lot of money by doing it myself. Buy your original model number part from Parts Select.
I first removed the door to the freezer (my frig has a bottom freezer) by loosening the 4 screws and lifting the door up and off. Then, because I'm stubborn, I chose not to remove either of the basket/drawers. It took a little bit of effort to fit my arms/hands in there, but I was able to remove the bottom screw to the old icemaker, and loosen the two top screws. (And disconnect the wiring harness.) I could then lift the old icemaker up and off. Putting the new icemaker in was pretty easy-- just slide it down over the two top screws and connect the wiring harness. The hardest part was getting the bottom screw back in! Because I didn't remove the baskets/drawers, I had very little room to work, and I had to "feel" for where that bottom screw went (even used a little mirror to help me). I could have just left this screw out, as the icemaker was sitting in there quite securely. But I kept at it, and after about 20 minutes, I was able to line up the screw with the hole, balanced on the tip of the screwdriver, and get it screwed in. Total repair took about 45 minutes. And no more leaky ice maker!
Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.
One of the plastic fasteners had broken so the entire part needed replacing.
Turned off power, Removed screw, disconnected wire harness and removed old rail from door, Connected new wire harness and attached new rail to door, replaced screw. Restored power. Done.
Water not draining to pan. It caused an ice build up under the freezer draw
Remove the grate at the back of the refrigerator. Remove the existing drawn tube. Replace the exiting drain tube with the updated drain tube. Check to see if water was draining properly. Replace the grate. Sit back and have a beer.
I followed the video provided by PartsSelect and it was very good with almost every step you take. Pay particular attention to how the demonstrator stands relative to the frame and things will go a bit easier. There is one thing the video fails to do well and that is show you how the metal U-shaped rod is extracted. At best, the close-up gives you a clue rather than a sense of what is done and the verbal explanation of what it is you are trying to do with the screwdriver blade is unfortunately not detailed enough. I experimented as best I could with varying degrees of force and various positions but was taken by surprise when the rod suddenly was free and slid half-way out of the old frame. I still am not clear in my own mind what I did to free it, though I have my suspicions ;). Other than that step, the video took me through everything smoothly. One key - save everything from your old frame, you'll need it all!
The door switch was broken so the interior light would not come on.
The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!
I had a loose fitting old condensor fan blade on my new motor.
I made a temporary repair by drilling the old blade plastic hub and put a small screw in it to hold it on to the shaft until the new blade arrived. The new blade came in within the two days I needed before Thanksgiving. I removed the old and pushed on the new. There were 8 screws on the back guard and two to hold the motor on. It was a snap. Thank you PartSelect.com The wife is very, very happy now, we had 51 coming over for Thanksgiving. :)
