Drain pump not working. Washer would not drain or advance to spin cycle.
Repair video is spot on but does not emphasize securing the drain pump to the washer before reattaching hoses. This holds the pump in place allowing you to compress the hose clamp while pushing on the hoses.
Water dripping into the washer when washer was not in use
I followed instructional video on partselect.com, it was very easy, but it didn't take care of the problem. I got to to order "TRIPLE WATER VALVE" and that did the trick. After opening the washer first time (for water fill nozzle), it took me even less time. You don't have to take the front panel off to replace the water valve.
I had to replace the water fill nozzle on my GE washer, and having the instruction video on the parts page is a real time-saver. It shows how to remove each part on your washer in order to access the area where the part needs to be replaced. Start to finish, about 20 minutes. Easy peasy.
Washer wouldn’t drain so I checked the water pump. Found out it stopped working so I ordered a new one.
Very easy to put a new water pump. You have to disconnect two hoses from the pump, unplug the power connection from the pump, and unscrew the two screws from the base of the pump.
Followed video to take washer apart. I used the Shaft & Drive Assembly to tap out bearing as it was stuck. BTW the screeching was because the Shaft & Drive Assembly ball bearing retainer cage was in pieces. Replaced tub bearing and installed new Shaft & Drive Assembly. Washer now runs like new. Get the spanner wrench to remove existing nut and purchase a new nut.
I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.
First buy the tub nut wrench. I can't over emphasize that! $12 at amazon. With out it getting the inner tub out will be the worst part of the job. And you will have to buy a new nut. I had trouble getting the old bearing out of the outer tub. I had to drive it out with a punch. The only other problem I had was after getting everything back together the new tub seal leaked. When I installed it if fit very loose on the OD. I ordered a new seal hoping it would fit tighter but it didn't so I coated the the seat of the tub and the OD of the seal with gasket shellac. That solved the problem. Working great.
The bolt holes of the new drive shaft assembly come unthreaded
This is a normal condition; the old bolts are self-tapping so simply align them well, I used a drill-driver to get them started and completed tightening with a socket wrench. (Also the new drive shaft assembly comes with a tub seal, so you don't have to order a separate one.) I do think it would be better if the drive assembly came with 4 new bolts. The instruction video was immensely helpful, Thank you.
Watched the repair video on PartSelect website , repair was exactly as they showed on video , grab old agitator at base , give a quick pull and it popped right off , lined up tabs to coupler with new agitator and gave a sharp push down and new agitator snapped right on. Total repair time was approx 5 minutes .
The original control knob was made of 100% plastic and broke 3 times
I was using vice grips to turn the control knob (stub) until the new knob arrived. The replacement knob was a redesigned type with a metal backing plate to place on the control knob stub (better than the original plastic knob) however the diameter of the new knob is only half the size of the original knob and the mark on the dial does not line up with the markings on the dryer control panel making it difficult to know what cycle you are using or how far to turn the dial within each cycle before passing to the next cycle.
Pulled off the broken control knob (which was really easy, since it was already broken.) Aligned the new knob to the knob shaft which is shaped like a "D", pushed it onto shaft until it was fully seated. Very easy install!!GT
I pulled the top off of the washer and found that my leak was coming from a small hole in the hose and water inlet. I had to remove 2 small bolts and a hose clamp to remove the old part,I did the reverse to install new part.
