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Washer would not start
The parts I ordered were made of junk plastic and did not match up with the the existing parts. The parts did not end up fixing the problem and I bought a new washer instead.
Locked garage door. Removed hoses after shutting off water. Removed 4 10mm bolts and removed old valve and replaced. Reverse the process. Total time about 5 minutes. Drank beer and then declared to wife after 30 minutes that the problem was solved.
The drain pump had three screws. Frist unplug the machine and turn the water off. And unplug the hose for the Hot and Clod Water. Make sure their no water in the tub. Unplug the pipe from the Tub. The unscrew the nut for the connector. Then unplug the connector and be careful not to damage plug for the connector. Press the plug connector with your finger or long nose pliers . Then just hook the new plumb and you all set.
1) Unplug washer 2) Remove water supply hoses 3) Remove drain hose 4) Tilt washer forward 5) Remove 4 bolts covering the motor assembly to access belt. 6) Remove old belt by turning it off the pullies. 7) The new belt needed to be stretched by attaching one end of the belt to one of the pullies using a zip tie. I did this by drilling a small hole in the larger pulley, large enough to allow the zip tie to pass through. 8) After tightening the zip tie to the belt, slowly turn the larger pulley to stretch the belt on to the smaller pulley. 9) Make sure belt is properly seated on both pullies. 10) Reinstall the cover. 11) Reattach drain hose and supply hoses. 12) Plug washer back in.
Threads on an inlet valve deteriorated; couldn't tighten the hot hose.
Unplug the cord and shut off hot and cold water faucets.
headache avoidance: The male threads of the inlet valve are plastic. Gently turn the female hose ends onto them at the kitchen table with the eventual position in mind then tighten.
1. Remove 4 screws holding shiny metal backplate w/ 1/4" socket (easy) 2. Pry tabs loose, top of plate (easy). 3. Pull electric leads from 2 solenoids (easy). 4. Remove 2 long screws holding upper painted structure (easy). 5. Remove 2 screws holding valve in place (easy). 6. Tilt and slide the valve loose and pull it out (easy). 7. Replace valve and reverse steps 6-1.
n.b. no inside water tubes; water drips straight into tub
Also, an hour should be enough. I spent more time than needed guessing, dealing with a few issues, opening the machine again, starting over, etc.
Took top of the washer then took one rod off at a time and replace with the new one, the back two are a little bit harder to do but it works great now.
Put the parts in, turned washer on.....lid lock still blinks, will not operate. Suggest the control board that sends the signal to the solenoid lid lock switch is defective. Buying a new washer, scrapping this one.
The machine stopped working completely! My wife went on YouTube,and learned that it could be the motherboard or the door latch. We changed both, and the washer would only fill but did not drain, and spin! We called a serviceman, and he had to program the service board,but said that the new door mech
We changed the circuit board once, and the door latch mechanism twice because we ordered a faulty part. Then we had to hire a service man to program the circuit board, and to inform us that the door latch mechanism was faulty.