First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, it was really simple. I conected the new element & defrost themostat (instuctions were included with the parts). I replaced the cover pluged the fridge in everything was woking fine. I placed a themometer in the fridge & have been watching it for 2+ weeks now it is working fine. To anyone who is looking to do this repair, on thier own, I reccomend it. It was very simple & required little to no skill. No reasopn to throw away money to call a repair man.
Frost in ice chut, flapper hanging partially open.
Removed control panel, snapped out pretty easy. Removed flapper assembly (4 small screws). My spring was broke but it ended up being the solenoid assembly after I replaced the spring, door crank, micro switch and flapper it was obvious the solenoid was hanging up. I had to go back an order it but it was at my door 2nd day (quickly). I took the time to clean the area with Tylex (some mold), and everything went in easily. I didn't really need the new flapper, crank, and micro switch but they were fairly cheap and then all is new. We use our ice dispenser a great deal so I didn't want to have to go back in and fix a part I "should have" replaced. I used Part Select for my washer motor as well. Doing both repairs myself probably saved 3 or 4 hundred dollars easily.
The first component I suspect is the relay mounted near the compressor. I installed the replacement relay and still nothing. I then removed the control board, inspected it for burnt circuit paths or components. I noticed the c.b. relay for the compressor's lead had burned away the solder and there was no longer a viable connection. Not sure why this happened but my next step is to a) reestablish a solder connection. If this fails then b) replace the control board.
First I removed the two screws that hold the tank in place. I then pulled the tank out about 3 inches and cut the water tubes to tank. Replaced new tank using 5/16 quick connects for water tubes.
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
I determined that the icemaker was not getting any water to the unit. The icemaker was still cycling but was not filling with water. I assumed the water valve was malfunctioning so I looked up the schematic drawing on the site and ordered the Water Valve & Bracket Assembly. It arrived within days. It took less than 10 minutes to install with miniumal effort. Within minutes the water could be heard flowing into the unit. Within an hour we had ice again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Remove the two nuts holding the top of the unit to the side of the freezer using a 1/4 in nutdriver. Pull the unit out and unplug it from the back of the freezer. Remove all pieces of the broken stripper. The replacement part fits onto a peg on the back of the icemaker and into a slot. Bend into place and slide into position.
A piece of the crusher cover broke off into the ice bin
I removed the ice bin, removed the metal rod off the bottom, unscrewed all screws holding things together and then carefully pried the crusher assembly out of the ice bin. I made the mistake of doing it when the bin was still frozen and ended up cracking it where the "clips" from the crusher are inserted. It was much easier after the bin warmed up.
Broken water line near solonoid to feed drinking water
bought an push in, in line connector and a new 5/16 plastic hose. I just replaces 2 feet of plastic hose from the selonid up an splices the hose using the connector. Worked perfect.
The water was leaking from below the refrigerator, and a big puddle was being formed.
First I removed the screws, and the covering at the bottom rear of the GE Fridge. I then removed the existing water valve which was the source of water leak, it was all corroded with the leak at the valve joints, so I knew the water valve needed to be replaced. The water valve I received from PartSelect fitted in perfectly, once I had removed the old valve. All I needed was couple of screw drivers for the replacement. I would like to thank PartSelect for making this easy and saving me lots of money & time by not going for outside professional help.
I did it the way you recommended except rather than removing the existing tube from the water valve at the bottom of the fridge I cut the existing and new tubes and then spliced the new tube to the old tube. I already had the splicer nut so it was quicker and easier. By the way, shipping was very quick and you prices and your website are excellent!
Flapper not sealing. Frost buildup on inside of freezer door
Followed previous instructions from a previous post. Inserted small screwdriver in the 2 outer holes up under the face plate to remove it then removed 4 screws holding the inner assembly which allowed access to the flapper assembly. Replaced it and reassembled everything. Problem solved
Switch failed on which kept the refrigerator warm due to heat generatered by light bulbs.
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope
