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D/W would not drain. Water standing in bottom.
It is a simple process to replace the drain solenoid on these dishwashers, having replaced several in the past few months.
After removing the front bottom panels, I removed the 2 screws holding the old solenoid, unplugged the wire harness, and then switched over the springs to the new solenoid. Assembly was installing 2 screws, and plugging in the wire harness.
I work on a 260 + unit property, as well as working for a property management company who rents single family homes.
PartSelect.com is an excellent source of parts, shipping in a quick manner, allowing the repairs to be completed in a timely manner. Thank you.
Noticed small leak at the bottom corner of the door
I looked at the gasket for the door, and noticed that it was flattened out and also noticed that there were two other seals at the lower left and right corners that were also hard and flattened. I found the parts for my dishwasher on this site and ordered them. Once I received them, I removed the old ones. They just came right out, and I inserted the new ones in the same spot. It was then that I noticed that there is another gasket for the door, that goes at the bottom of the inside of the door. The gasket for the door goes all the way around the outside, except for about a 4 inch section at the bottom of the door, right in the middle. I realized that I probably needed to get a new one of those too, so I ordered that part. I am now waiting on that small, 4 inch door gasket.
Dishwasher leaks from bottom of door......when operated.
Removed 7 screws holding "inner door" in place ( note: 2 bottom screws are different than the rest...keep separate).....remove rinse aid plug....press "tabs" inward to release rinse aid container. ( in this instance....the gasket had failed...which was "part" of the reason dishwasher was leaking during operation)
install new rinse aid container ...making sure that "trip arm" is positioned correctly........and press into place. ( Tabs should expand when container is properly positioned...creating a tight seal).....reuse old rinse aid filler plug.
Replace "inner door" cover....tighten screws.....
remove faulty tub corner baffles....place new ones in corresponding positions ( the baffles form a suction .....to stay in place....no adhesive needed)
Close door and operate as usual........no more leaks!
This is a super easy "no brainer"...that would have cost about half the price of a new dish washer ...had I hired a "professional" to do the repairs!!!!
Motor was getting noisier every time we used the dishwasher. We knew it was just a matter of time before it totally quit.
The most difficult part was removing the dishwasher from below the counter. Once that was complete, I simply turned the washer onto it's front surface to access the pump easier. Simply disconnected the electrical connectors, loosened the three hose clamps holding the hoses to the pump. Lastly removed a stiff arm bracket holding the pump. Reversed the order to install the new one using a longer bracket provided with the new unit. Hooked up the electrical connections last and slid the washer back in place. The washer runs like new now and is not making noise. The replacement part was a perfect match.
front twoo rack rollers broken ,bottom rack roller broken
for the top rollers you must remove thethe end cap. this was easy ,i placed a block of wood on the outside .placed the punch on the inside where the channel is pushed in to hold cap on. smacked it till it was pushed out far enough to remove end cap. new rollers simply snap on. very easy,
Very easy about 5 min replacement, Checked electrical conductivity to verify I had a bad solinoid, after I received the new part. I removed and replaced part by only removing and re-installed 2 screws and spring. Dishwasher worked like new.
water coming our of dishwasher from upper part of spray arm water supply hose, hole in upper part of hose due to corosion
unscrewed 2 screws found on upper part of dishwasher that connected hose to spray arm found inside of dishwasher to remove hose. gently squeezed rubber gasket to work it into the hole found at the top center of the dishwasher, made sure rubber disc shaped gasket was seated properly into spray arm, screw spray arm back into place. The job was much easier than I thought It took about 20 minutes it saved me from buying a new dishwasher, the delivery of the hose was faster than the speed of light it took about i business day, I order the hose on saturday it arrived tuesday evening. Thanks for your excellent service
In order to access the fill valve, dishwasher had to be removed from under countertop. Disconnected water supply line and drain hose under sink. Unplugged unit and removed 2 screws holding unit to countertop. I was then able to pull unit out and replace valve. After reinstallation, the same problem existed. Further research pointed to the control module, approx. $100.00 or the motor, approx. $250.00 - $300.00. I than began looking at new dishwashers, but I did email GE with the problem. They suggested I use citric acid or vinegar in hot water, pour into right rear portion of tub and wait 1/2 hour. After doing that, the dishwasher worked perfectly.
Removed 4 screws in washer then removed cover. Then piston and nut assembly which just needs turned loose.Pull out and then,put new one back in,tighten up, put cover back on put 4 screws back in. Then unhooked water line, power cord, drain hose. Pull washer out and drained water out of system with drain hose. put a towel down to catch excess water. Loosen nut at end of drain hose with a pliers, remove flapper put new one back in tighten drain hose . Put washer back in hook water, power and drain hose. Run thourgh cycle and it should work much better.
took dishwasher out- put on table to work on-removed wire brace- disconected drain outlet- disconnected top drive seal- removed wire clip connector- removed motor unit---------------- installed new motor/drain unit--used new longer wire brac used adapter to connect electical leads- tightened clamps and bingo it worked and didnt' leak. good job on the supplying of all the necessary adapers.
First I removed the dishwasher from underneath the countertop and laid it on its back. I used a nut driver to remove the pump support wire and the two clamps holding the rubber connectors to the pump. It helped to hook the pump support wire in a hole in the left side of the frame and reconnect it to the pump to hold it up out of the way. I was able to remove the rubber connector by hand and unscrew it. To install the new rubber connector tightly, I slipped a piece of 2" PVC pipe (outside diameter is 2-3/8") inside the connector and tightened the clamp around the connector and PVC pipe. This allowed me to use the pipe to tighten the rubber connector. I reassembled the dishwasher pump and connections and put the dishwasher back into service
Went to www.PartSelect.com. Part was easy to locate online with GE model number and illustraion online. They shipped the parts in two days and I put the new parts on by hand. Saved a $135 service call from GE. One part came in broken from the factory. Upon calling customer servce, PartSelect sent out a replacement part the next day - no problem. Great service, would be happy to use again - Thank you!