Removed door panel. Removed old door seal and cleaned seal recess. Installed new seal. Replaced door panel on door and ran a cycle to check for leaks. Readjusted door latch to correct small leak. Ran another leak test. Job complete and wife is happy!
Upper rack kept dropping from the wheels when we pulled it out
We knew roughly how we needed to put the cap on the rail, but our technique of simply forcing it in the end of the rail wasn't working. The trick is to bend the moveable part of the plastic cap inward while you're sliding it in, and it clicks right into place.
The location of the cap we were replacing was the upper back left, which made it a little tricky to reach back there and insert it, especially for a bigger guy like myself. We took the bottom rack out and my smaller wife was more easily able to lean in the dishwasher and reach back there to insert it.
Plumber had suggested trying a new gasket rather than replace the dishwasher. Ordered one and installed it. Cleaned door and installed gasket in about 30 minutes. So far it works great .... and ... cheaper than new dishwasher.
"Clean" light inoperative; too much water in bottom; dry cycle malfunction (inside wet, dishes not dry).
REPLACE CONTROL BOARD - Turn off circuit breaker. Take out lower rack. Remove inside door panel (seven Phillips screws). Hold outside door panel (control board location) in place with bungee cord. Remove push lever (two screws) to facilitate removal of control board. Disconnect control board connectors (five, I think). Remove old control board (two screws and plastic clips). Install new control board (clips, connectors, and two screws). Re-install push lever (two screws). Re-install inside door panel (the main contol lever alignment is a little tricky), seven screws. Remove bungee cord. Put lower rack back in. Turn on circuit breaker. Test dishwasher. Worked perfectly, just like new. Normal amount of water in bottom. "Dry" cycle normal. "Clean" light comes on and stays on until door is opened i.e. normal operation. "Delay" feature also works normally. Dishwasher may last a few more years. Cost of control board: $120 inc. shipping.
Removed seven screws that held the inside panel to door. removed inside panel to work area and cleaned. After carefully observing the position of the old gasket, it was easily removed and the new one but in its place. Replaced the door being careful toalign the handle before tightly securing all seven screws. Repair worked, no more leak.
Removed dishwasher, took off motor, and ordered part. It was delivered in a timely fashion (3 days). Determined which directions to follow. Used screwdriver to hook up motor. Put dishwasher back into cabinet area, made sure there were no leaks before fastening the dishwasher in place. Took about 1/2 hour to complete process. Very satisfied.
Went to repair parts on troubleshooting and found check valve assembly to be most common problem. Went to parts diagram to locate assembly and found it somewhat confusing as to exact location. Ordered part(s) on percentage as the problem. Received part next day (great)! Pulled dishwasher out and found I did NOT need to do so to replace check valve which is replaced without having to remove dishwasher. The gasket replacement was not necessary as it seals sump area from bottom of dishwasher and not the valve as it appears on the parts diagram. It took about 2 minutes to replace valve itself and it was the cause of the problem.
Read directions. They were poorly drawn. Set them aside. Opened up unit on December 26th. I made careful observation of the wiring, two hoses, one metal bracket, the hose two clamps, and then proceeded. Instructions said 1 to 2 hours, to complete. Ha Ha, perhaps if you've done it before. It was actually really closer to four hours. When done, it worked perfectly. The best part, my wife said: "This was the best Christmas present ever!" That made my day! Dishes are clean again, just like new! Thank you: www.PartsSelect.com.