Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
the motor was leaking pretty badly.
I first shut off water supply and disconnected the water line and drain hose to the disposal. Then I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet unplugged the electrical wire from the wall and laid it on it's back side. I then laid out the new motor and compared parts to parts. It was a direct replacement of the same motor except for very minor changes. I unscrewed the support bracket, then unscrewed the bottom clamp that joined the motor and the rubber connector to the dishwasher. I also decided to replace that part also. That part was removed by using my hand to unscrew it. It has large threads that are not very recognizable when looking at the part. It unscrews counterclockwise like a normal screw. You have to hold the inside piece while you screw the new one back in place. I put it as tight as I could by hand. I would recommend doing so on all motor replacements due to that part not looking so good and if it leaked you would have to take everything apart again to change it out. That part is a separate purchase and it is not included with the kit. Then I took the other clamp to the plastic connector off. I then unplugged the electrical connections, there were only two and they were both exact connections for the replacement motor. After that the entire motor was separated from the dishwasher and I went slipped the new motor into place connected two clamps and made sure everything was reconnected. I slid the dishwasher in place, reconnected the power wire, the drain hose, water supply. I checked for leaks after restoring water pressure. Then ran the dishwasher through a complete cycle and it works just fine. Total repairs cost about 150.00 and the dishwasher appears to be brand new again. I took one look at the diagrams and never had to refer back to them. They had plenty different diagrams and the first option was mine and that was all I needed. I would recommend this option to anyone.
The access panel fit perfectly. The screw holes lined up just right and the screws went in without any trouble. The toe kick panel was a different story. It almost seems like it is a generic, one panel fits all part. I couldn't figure out how to attach it to the dishwasher. None of the holes/slots lined up with anything, so it is just sitting there being held in place by the access panel and the floor.
The top drawer of the dishwasher would extend past the support rails.
The top right rail, facing the dishwasher, has a self lock tab. Using pliers, straighten the lock tab, insert the cap and then restore the lock tab to it's original position.
Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.
Rear 1/2" wheels on new rack were too narrow causing rack to fall off tracks
Removed 3/4" rear wheels from old damaged rack and installed them on new rack. Works fine now. For the price paid for this replacement rack, wide wheels should be included as part of the replacement package.
Wires wee very rusted and some almosth rusted through.
The lower dishrack just lifted out and the new one placed in. The upper rack had stops at the end of the slides which could be removed with the help of a flat blade screw driver, old rack slipped out, new rack slipped in and the stops replaced on the end of the slide which keeps that upper rack from coming al the way out of the dishwasher. There was a link to a "how to do video" on the email order confirmation. It just gave me reassurance that I could easily do the job.
