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New dishwasher came with a warped roller wheel (upper rack)
I removed the warped roller wheel and clipped the new one in place. Then I screwed the rail guides back on the dishwasher and guided the upper rack back onto the rail guides. Easy peasy.
Remove Base Access Panel; Removed Valve Mounting Bracket & Valve; Disconnected Wire Connector; Disconnected Supply Line & distribution Hose; Reversed the Process. Piece of Cake; Part was O.E.M.Component Exact Fit; Took Longer to Write this than it took for Fix. Thanks I Will Be Back for other Parts.!
The following steps were performed: 1) Disconnect power to the dishwasher 2) Unscrew all the screws on the inside of dishwasher door. 3) Remove outside plate on bottom of dishwasher. 4) Separate the dishwasher door after all screws are removed and pull out the old dishwasher rinse agent tank. There is a screw that needs to removed that holds the tank in place as well. 5) Snap in the new rinse agent tank and tighten screw in that holds tank in place. 6) Gently put the inside door back in place. Make sure all the holes line up correctly. 6) Put back the bottom plate of dishwasher. 7) Turn on the power again. You have now completed the repair.
Removed door panel. Removed old door seal and cleaned seal recess. Installed new seal. Replaced door panel on door and ran a cycle to check for leaks. Readjusted door latch to correct small leak. Ran another leak test. Job complete and wife is happy!
Upper rack kept dropping from the wheels when we pulled it out
We knew roughly how we needed to put the cap on the rail, but our technique of simply forcing it in the end of the rail wasn't working. The trick is to bend the moveable part of the plastic cap inward while you're sliding it in, and it clicks right into place.
The location of the cap we were replacing was the upper back left, which made it a little tricky to reach back there and insert it, especially for a bigger guy like myself. We took the bottom rack out and my smaller wife was more easily able to lean in the dishwasher and reach back there to insert it.
Plumber had suggested trying a new gasket rather than replace the dishwasher. Ordered one and installed it. Cleaned door and installed gasket in about 30 minutes. So far it works great .... and ... cheaper than new dishwasher.
1. Turn off water supply. 2. Remove the metal toe kick plate/insulation at the bottom of the dishwasher. 3. Remove hose to supply valve. 4. Take electrical plug off old valve. 5. Remove float valve because it was mounted it right in the way of the 2 screws on the inlet valve bracket. 6. Remove those 2 screws now you can get to them, and move the inlet valve to one side so you can get to the hose clamp for the rubber hose out of the valve going to the dishwasher. 7, Take the old valve and bracket out, mount new valve on the bracket, crawl back down on the floor, reinstall rubber hose and bracket, and float valve and finally inlet hose. 8. Turn water on. Check hose connections for leaks. Yep, outlet hose didn't clamp enough now, allowing a drip. 9. Repeat the whole process AGAIN. Replace little clamp with a REAL hose clamp, reinstall the thing again. No leak this time. 10. Test run dishwasher thru a cycle. Check again for leaks at hose connections. OK ? Reinstall insulation pieces and toe kick plate.
The part came in as ordered. After removing the dish rack, I loosened three 1/4" screws (two on the strainer basket and one at the base of the spray arm. I had to slide the rubber hose down and back to disconnect the base which I did by turning counter clockwise. The new one went in by reversing what I just described. Other than two of the screws being difficult to reach, everything worked fine.Thanks for your site.