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Rusted, corroded lower dish rack with broken runner wheel
I easily pulled out the old damaged rack and simply rolled the new rack into the dishwasher. It took a minute.
Excellent service--I got an immediate e-mail confirmation of my order, an email the next day telling me that the rack had been shipped, and the rack arrived on the following day--2 days after I ordered it. This is the best service I've ever had!
The hardest part is removing the plastic stop on the end of the two slides that support the roller rack. My unit was very old and I was afraid the plastic was brittle. Fortunately, the plastic could still be bent without breaking. You need to physically bend the plastic stops to remove. They came out easily, but you do need to apply some force.
Replacing the rollers was simple. Replacing the stops was easy once you understand how to pry them out. I would recommend trying to remove the stops with your hand only at first. You are less likely to damage the plastic.
Without any specific directions with the part (which would had been nice. If it wasn't for my husband I wouldn't have known where to start.) I had to carfully pull the dishwasher out of the cabinet (it wasn't heavy) to unplug the power supply. Then we unscrewed 2 screws on the top and the upper arm connection came off. We replaced it with the new one, screwed it back on, reconnected the power supply and pushed the dishwasher back where it belonged. It worked out very well. Also I want to say I am very happy with the length of time it took to get my part to me. (1 day) I was washing dishes it no time.
My GE dishwasher had a problem. The upper rack would fall into the lower rack when loaded breaking dishes! Turns out, the front rollers on the upper rack were broken so that the supports would just pull out. So, I found the parts on this website easily. I then took off the plastic plug on the support which is easy to do. There is a flange you bend towards the rear of the dishwasher to release the plug. Once released you have access to the rollers, which just snap off easily. The new ones snap on easily. Reverse the cap removal, and you are done!
I removed the screws from inside door panel. Took door panel out. Noted the way the old gasket was placed, removed it and replaced with the new gasket. Replaced the door panel. Felt pretty proud of myself until I realized that the door lock wouldn't work when I was going to run it. I have now removed the door panel again and am trying to get the door lock lever to work.
Door seal was brittle and flat. Not a hard job to do just having to keep making sure the seal did not pop out on the bottom corners of the door. The seal would tare easy so have to be careful. Before you remove the old seal on the bottom of door there is a 4 inch space between the ends of the seal. Mark the spot with marker so you know where to start placing the new seal. Baffles were orginaly put in place with plummer putty, do not use this. Get GE clear seal is the best will hold forever but will come loose with a good tug. easy to clean out when replacing baffles again. Do not use any sealent when inserting the door seal just push into opening. Make sure you support the door when pushing down on door to put the seal in the slots. The hardest part is the bottom corners the seal tends to slip out I found that if I streached the seal over the openings and continued on and come back to the corners it was easier to make the seal slip in.
Pulled unit out of cabinet took two top screws out of spinner spray arm and put back together.Old sprayer was plugged up not letting wash go through.Thanks for helping me fix and not replace unit.Saved at least 400.
I used the pump/motor replacement kit. It was a very easy repair and the parts were a direct replacement with no modification necessary. I saved over $300.
I removed the two screw at the top holding the dishwasher to the counter top; pulled on the unit - but found it stuck on something. Of course the hot water feed and the drain hose were still connected and would not let the unit move out any further as there was no slack. If I had thought about it - I would have disconnected these from under the adjacent sink. But I ended up lying on the floor trying to disconnect them from underneath the unit. It was a bit difficult as there was very little room to move the wrench and the screwdriver. Once done, the unit came out very easily. When tipped over I disconnected the old motor and replaced with the new. It was a very different design but fitted in very easily. The hanger took a bit of working out as the diagrams are not very clear. The wires and clips went together easily. Once I had cleaned everything around the motor and the gunge that cames from years or washing dishes, it went back the way it came out. Albeit with the same difficulty with feed and drain hose. We ran the unit with no dishes for a couple of times to clear our the muck left in the pipes when the system was down. Now we have a fully functioning dishwasher again. Cost $250 for the pump and motor as opposed to the $800+ unit my wife was looking at!
