GSC4138X00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Ordered the part, by using the diagram on the ge website identified the part and ordered it right them and when it came (delivered really fast) took it out of the bag and screwed it in the jet dry despenser and is working great.

The hardest part was removing the dishwasher from under the counter and cleaning up the large amount of water that poured out when I turned the unit on its side.
The actual pump replacement was pretty easy except there were a lot of extra parts that were only needed for other brands or other models.
I might have tightened one of the large clamps too much as there was a very slight leak after I was done. One or two drops of water per cycle, which evaporates quickly and not worth taking apart again.
It was not hard but took longer than predicted.
Much better than buying a new dishwasher or paying the estimated $350 to an appliance repair company.

Saved a bundle over the cost of a new dishwasher. by ultimately replacing the entire motor/pump assembly with one ordered from PartSelect.com And a bonus was a much quieter operating dishwasher!!

Here's what I did:

First tried replacing leaking drain valve shaft seal.
Removed entire motor pump assembly. Replaced seal. Still leaked (although less) because drain valve shaft was worn (corroded.)

Next ordered the entire motor/pump replacement assembly. The parts arrived in 2-1/2 days. (Should have replaced entire pump assembly to start with - all of the same labor to replace just the drain valve shaft seal.)

Anyways, instructions were very clear and well illustrated. This replacement took less time than to do the drain valve shaft seal.

Very simple repair:
1) Shut off water supply, electric power
2) remove front bottom insulated dishwasher cabinet cover grills.
3) disconnect drain hose and catch water in shallow dish.
4) disconnect water supply at solenoid valve.
5)disconnect electrical inside junction box and remove cable from dishwasher.
6) remove two under counter screws to top of tub
7) slide dishwasher out from under cabinets.
8) place soft carpet to cushion left side of dishwasher to avoid potential damage to water inlet to tub..
9) lay dishwasher onto left side. (Not right side, as jet dry reservoir wiill drain empty all over floor.)
10) unfasten motor support rod, power connector, and drain solenoid power connector.
11) unfasten motor ground wire.
undo pump inlet and outlet boot clamps.
12) remove old motor/pump assembly.
13) prepare new motor/pump assembly drain hose adapter stub reducer diameter to pump drain outlet. (tighten two hose clamps provided/)
14) place new motor/pump assembly into inlet and outlet boots.
15) fasten inlet and outlet boot clamps firmly tight.
16) install new, longer motor support rod (front)
17) install motor ground wire and new, fine thread grounding screw,
18) connect motor power to new power pigtail and plug new pigtail into motor power connection,
19) install wire wrap tie threaded through the support rod to front frame hole and support motor power wires/
20) install wire wrap tie through drain valve solenoid metal support holes and loop around solenoid power wires to support them.
21) tilt dishwasher upright and slide back under counter cabinets. Guid power and water supply lines to right under side of pump motor, and drain hose to left side.
22) reattach drain hose to new motor/pump drain stub reduce adapter, tighten hose clamp.
23) support drain hose with wire wrap tie looped over frame on left side.
24) reattach water supply to inlet water solenoid valve and tighten firmly.
25) redo electrical power supply connections to dishwasher hot, neutral, and ground (120VAC).
26) check level of dishwasher tub and adjust front and rear leveling legs on left and right sides. BE SURE LEVEL, OR WATER MAY SPILL OUT TUB WATER INLET OPENING DURING OPERATION.
27) remove inside tub drain trap screen (two screws) , and pull out sump baffle. Check for and remove clear any foreign objects inside tjhe sump.
28) replace sump baffle (flat baffel towards fromt. and tub drain screen cover.
29) Turn on water supply and electirc power supply.
30) Test wash a load of dishes and check for leakage.
31) reinstall fromt lower insulated cover grills.

Wow, the new motor/pump assembly operates very quietly compared to the old one - this is a pleasant and unexpected bonus.

No problems encountered.

Total time was about 2.5 hours to do all of above.

A no brainer. Simply open dishwasher door, remove lower rack and set new rack in place. Roll the new lower rack in dishwasher and close door. It fit perfectly and life routine was instantly on it's way without disruption.

The repair only required me to lift out the old unit and set the new rack into the dishwasher. I was pleased that there was nothing to put together. The rollers were already attached.
It took longer to open the shipping box than to do the installation.

I called the repair guy, and he told me I'd have to replace the motor/pump assembly. He said he could do it for around $250 to $300. I logged onto this website for a look and saw the seal available. After reading the other responses, I figured with a seal and the cheap push-nut (that sometimes gets mangled upon removal), it would be worth a try.
I pulled the dishwasher partly out from under the cabinet; disconnected the front support mount, the drain hose, and the two water boots; dropped the motor/pump assembly; removed the solenoid; removed the e-clip, push-nut, shaft, and old seal; and then reinstalled everything. The hardest part of the repair was the tight working conditions. I wonder how many people pay hundreds of dollars because of this $15 part.

Rather than remove the dishwasher from the counter, I performed the repair inplace, which was much less work (although I did have to lay on the floor).
After turning off the power, I removed the two access panels at the bottom of the unit, disconnected the wiring from the pump and solenoid, loosened the drain hose fitting and drained most of the water out of the unit and into a shallow pan (the drain solenoid was stuck open, so this was pretty easy - otherwise, I still could have manually actuated the drain valve & solenoid to drain water through this hose).
There was alot of water in the unit and my pan overflowed a little. If I was doing this again, think I would have disconnected the drain hose from under the sink and drained out through that into a bucket (I could have controlled that flow better).
Once the water was out, there are just two hose clamps that hold the pump onto the unit (one on top and one in the back), and a stabilizer bar that connects the motor to the front frame. Removed these and the whole unit came right out.
The replacement pump & motor was exactly the same as the one that came out, so I didn't need any of the hose or wire adapters that came in the kit.
Reconnected the two pump connections, motor bracket and wiring, and the unit was good-to-go!

just unscrewed it from the dishwasher with my hand and put the new one back on the same way

I removed all the screws from the inner cover , I t was neccesary to remove the kick panel cover to get at the bottom screws , the door came right off , I needed help with the hinges as they are spring loaded , it was a little tricky to transfer the soap dispenser from the old inner panel , it was worth the effort , the whole thing only took 20 minutes , dishwaser is like new again

Removed bottom tray from the dishwasher and in the back there is a screen with 5 hex head screws. Removed the screws and then lifted the screen out to expose the vavle. Unscrewed the valve by hand an installed the new one,hand tighten only. Reversed order for reassembly.

The top dish rack was not an exact replacement, the side shelf did not fit and the center spray did not fit. I ran into much more trouble removing the the top rack than I had thought. I used the old wheels and it finally went on but the other mentioned problems remained.

First shut off the Power and Water to Dishwasher, removed from under counter, removed sump screen and retaining clamp from sump housing and then loosened seal from inside dishwasher cavity. Upon removal I went in search of a replacement part and found Parts Select on the web, entered my model and make at there web site and found the part I needed, I could verify the size by the easy picture on a one inch tile background for the dimenision . I called in the order since I wanted overnight service, I received the part and after cleaning the area where it goes I proceded to put things back together, this took about a hour and a half and the dishwasher is back in service

Found great information on this site describing the problem. My 9 year old GE Triton dishwasher has not been draining. I thought at first it was something stuck in float somewhere or perhaps a bad pump, but after searching around, I found this site and other stories similar to mine. Most of the reports suggested a worn check valve in the floor of the dishwasher tub, apparently a common issue with some GE models. I removed the strainer located at the back of the tub (4 screws removed w/ 1/4" nutdriver), then unscrewed the check valve to inspect it. Saw that the valve seat was very worn. Ordered the replacement part, received it 4 days later and installed in less than 10 minutes. The best part was I didn't have to remove the dishwasher or crawl underneath to complete the repair. Well worth the $20 for parts & shipping.

The shaft pulled out of the housing when I tried to get the push nut off. I had to take the pump housing out in order to get the shaft lined up with the valve when reassembling. In the end, the shaft had so much slop that no seal could keep it from leaking. Time for a new dishwasher.

I removed the four screws of the filter frame exposing the check valve (piston and nut assembly) . I unscrewed the old check valve and replaced it with the new one.