Old dual burner lost one half. It appeared the metal strip that wound into and around the circle, broke right where it came into the inside of the entrance, and I wasn't about to try and break everything open to try and fix it, as it didn't look like soldering would be easy, or that it would fix it.
Verified via ohmmeter that one of the two burners was open and not working. I also tested the switch and that appeared to be working okay. I then took out the old unit and compared it to the new one, and found that they upgraded the new unit. I followed the instructions to match the labeled parts and move the wire to the newer location of that. i.e the old one had 2B and 2A at the top and 1B and 1A at the bottom. The new one had 2B and 1B at the top and 2A and 1A at the bottom. It did come with wire extenders and insulated tubes on top of them, and extra to cover additional. After a couple of tries, I decided which wire I needed to use on which (small connectors to match small, and large to match large.) In a second try I decided to flip it over to have it face up instead of down. Overall, it worked out very well, and I was very pleased when I did the power up test and everything worked as desired.
cooktop on the rt side would just keep getting hot
Removed the ifinite controlswitch and replaced it but i dont believe it is wired correctly. now it wont get hot until it is set on four or so. think i the way it is wired.
Element was sent by buyer, As they recommended, when model of stove given to them. It was upper right rear. When element came. First took off old element. ...Match both element , new element did not look exactly the same, small variation. It did not come on.. I moved old element from left side to right side . Old element worked on both side .. tried new element on left side also.. still didn't work.. so I called right away and explained.. new element did not work.. not defective, but, just wasn't the right one.. I had a specialist came and check it out also. I was told wrong element.
Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil. Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!
The new element wiring placements were totally different from the old element. Lucky for me the lettering printed on the terminals for each pole was the same as on the old one. It was just a matter of matching up each terminal pole lettering. The instructions that came with the new element were of no help at all. Youtube was my best helper.
The Range took forever to achieve the proper heating temperature with an inability to maintain a steady heat
I removed the bottom drawer,unplugged the Range and pulled it out to expose the rear cover panel. Using a nut driver (a screw driver can be used), I removed the rear panel to expose the Thermal fuse located almost dead center in the back of the Range. Unplug the two wires and loosen the screw holding it in position. Replace the thermal fuse, plug the two wires into the new part and replace the rear cover panel. Return the Range to its original position and plug it in. The job is done in less than 30 minutes.
Unplugged stove. Pulled stove out. Unscrewed screws and removed cover. Removed & replaced sensor. Reinstalled cover & screws. Plugged in stove and pushed back in. Only problem was when I pulled stove out, lid opened and disconnected the gas line to a burner.
Removed 3 screws holding the glass door bracket. Placed glass into door holders, had another person hold glass while I replaced the removable bracket screws.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
I used a phillips screwdriver and replaced the part with one screw.Very easy and replaced my lower drawer under my oven,it tool about three to five minutes at the most and my drawer works fine now.Thanks for the instruction video on line, it really helped.