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Coil shorted out.
Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil. Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!
The new element wiring placements were totally different from the old element. Lucky for me the lettering printed on the terminals for each pole was the same as on the old one. It was just a matter of matching up each terminal pole lettering. The instructions that came with the new element were of no help at all. Youtube was my best helper.
Cooktop on and cooktop hot indicator lights stayed on.
Range surface element control switch was bad. Replaced the switch and every thing works fine. Removed two Philips head screws in front and two Philips head screws in back of the range. Pulled the front panel away from the back of the range with the power off of course. Unplugged the wires and removed the two screws that held the switch in. Replaced the switch and refastened the control panel. Tested the switch and every thing worked fine.
Old dual burner lost one half. It appeared the metal strip that wound into and around the circle, broke right where it came into the inside of the entrance, and I wasn't about to try and break everything open to try and fix it, as it didn't look like soldering would be easy, or that it would fix it.
Verified via ohmmeter that one of the two burners was open and not working. I also tested the switch and that appeared to be working okay. I then took out the old unit and compared it to the new one, and found that they upgraded the new unit. I followed the instructions to match the labeled parts and move the wire to the newer location of that. i.e the old one had 2B and 2A at the top and 1B and 1A at the bottom. The new one had 2B and 1B at the top and 2A and 1A at the bottom. It did come with wire extenders and insulated tubes on top of them, and extra to cover additional. After a couple of tries, I decided which wire I needed to use on which (small connectors to match small, and large to match large.) In a second try I decided to flip it over to have it face up instead of down. Overall, it worked out very well, and I was very pleased when I did the power up test and everything worked as desired.
Tools required - #2 Phillips and needle nose pliers. (possibly a new spade connector and stripper/crimper) (possibly a multi-meter)
Shut off the power and slide the range forward about 8-10 inches from the wall. It does not need to be completely in the open and perhaps would not need to be moved at all. Some of the parts may be stuck with accumulation of cooking debris and grease, depending on age. Disassembly will be a bit more difficult than a new range because of this. Clean everything up before reassembly.
Open the oven door. Remove two screws, one on either side, below the control panel. Lift and work the control panel loose. It has two bullet shaped posts that engage slots in the front of the range. These are tight. Be patient and work it by lifting and pulling and wiggling the entire control panel. When loose, it will lay down flat supported by all of the wiring harnesses. In our case it did not stress the wires. If concerned, support it somehow.
There is a galvanized bracket that runs most of the width of the range and retains a rubber gasket on the front edge of the glass. Remove two screws that hold this bracket. The bracket easily comes loose, set it aside.
There is a stainless steel trim piece on each side of the cooktop, running from front to back. Each one is held in place by one screw in the front. Remove the screws and the two trim pieces will slide forward and can be removed. Set them aside.
There is a rubber gasket across the front edge of the glass cook surface. Remove it. The cooktop glass can now be lifted and worked loose from the rear rubber gasket that seals across the back edge. Set the cooking surface aside in a safe place. You now have access to the burner elements.
Using the needle nose pliers, work the spade terminal connectors loose from the burner that is to be replaced. Note their positions. The burner is held in place by two spring clips that attach the burner to a galvanized support bar that runs from front to back of the range. A screwdriver can be used to compress each clip allowing a tab to be lifted out of a slot in the galvanized bar. If needed, you can remove one front screw that holds the bar in place and lift it for better access, but while this is not necessary, it allows for a better view of the retainer clips and the tabs that fit into slots in the support bar. With both clips released, the burner is free to be removed.
Our burner clearly had a break in the coil, so there was no doubt about the cause of non-functionality.
The spring clips must be removed and transferred to the new burner. With both burners, face down on a bench, remove the screws that retain the clips to the old burner. Make note of the index numbers at the position of the old clips and place them at the same position on the new burner. This positions the burner when it is mounted so that the terminals are properly positioned to allow the wiring harness to be attached as it was.
With the spring clips in place on the new burner, place the burner back in the range and engage the tabs in the slots on the support bar. They will snap back into place. Reconnect the spade connectors. The burner should now be tested before reassembly. (see later)
In our case, when power was reestablished (but burner control in the off position) the Surface Hot light was on art all times, so we knew something was wired wrong, even though it was re-connected exactly as it had previously been. There are slight differences between the new burners and old burners that apparently impact the wiring. There are no markings on either the old burner or new burner to give clues as to how it should be wired. Neither was there any advice in the instruction sheet that came with the new burner. We tested all of the terminals with the power on (burner off) to determine what voltages were where and removed the cover of the small box to which the terminals are attached. This box contains small switches, and we were able to determine the new wiring scheme. By wiring it exactly as it originally was, we had inadvertently put power to the Surface Hot light full time and the same potential to both sides of the coil so it would not heat. With this corrected, it worked fine.
As always, reassembly is just the reveres of the steps taken to disassemble. It is a bit tricky to place the glass back in the rear gasket. Just be careful and work it into place. Also the front control panel can be challenging. Line up the bullets with the slots and work it into place. It will snap into place when it is close with the aid of the heel of your hand.
One other note. One of the four wires in the harness had a smaller female spade connector which had to be cut off and a new one crimped on in order to fit the new burner.
Because of the wiring logic issue that had to be troubleshot, this took about three hours, which included disassembly and reassembly twice (because we reassembled before testing), figurin
Element was sent by buyer, As they recommended, when model of stove given to them. It was upper right rear. When element came. First took off old element. ...Match both element , new element did not look exactly the same, small variation. It did not come on.. I moved old element from left side to right side . Old element worked on both side .. tried new element on left side also.. still didn't work.. so I called right away and explained.. new element did not work.. not defective, but, just wasn't the right one.. I had a specialist came and check it out also. I was told wrong element.
Unplugged oven , removed screws ,pulled wires out, removed old element , just hooked wires up , screws .make sure it sits level plugged in. Works great
Door handle of stove's oven broke. Had problem finding handle until I contacted Select Parts.
The repair went well. Only took a few minutes. Oven is 21 years old and still working. I figured why throw away if still working. Thank you Select Parts for coming to my rescue. Will keep you in mind.
Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.
My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.
The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.
I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.
Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564
The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.
1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.) 2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger. 3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove. 4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove. 5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires. 6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner. 7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner. 8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above. 9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions. 10) Reverse removal steps.
Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.
