Turn off power at breaker box. Remove lower covers and 2 screws into counter top. Verify sufficient length on water and electrical connection to allow sliding dishwasher out approx. 2/3. I disconnected the electrical at the j box on the dishwasher. If you must disconnect the water line, shut off supply, usually located under nearby sink, and provide a rag or sponge for small amounts of water left in supply line. Carefully pull back the insulation to expose two screws on top where water line runs into the center. Pull the top tray part way out and reach in to hold the spray arm while removing the screws. The spray arm will easily drop out. Hold the new spray arm in place making sure the raised screw posts push into the holes, then reinstall the two screws. Done. Pull insulation back into place, retape if necessary. Reconnect electrical and water if necessary. Slide unit back in, checking alinement. Rescrew to counter top and reinstall lower covers. Task complete. 15 mins if prepared. 30 mins if both elect. & water are disconnected and you are somewhat hesitant.
I first made a bad assumption that the leaking dishwasher was from the gasket. I replaced the gasket and it still leaked. To find the leak, I took the body off of the dishwasher and ran it to find the leak. It was from the solonoid connection. I took photos of the leaking motor unit and very easily replaced the new motor unit by matching the placement from the photos. The hardest part is tipping the dishwasher on its side and mopping up the water. It was very easy. All you need is a nut driver and a Phillips screwdriver. Even an over-domesticated, non- tool user can do it.
Original Push on nut had corroded and was not retaining seal properly. Leaked water every drain cycle.
I would like to start-off by saying that I love this site . I've never been even remotely dissatisfied with parts I've ordered and the installation videos are awesome! I would recommend this site to anyone looking to repair appliances. Secondly, I am a retired mechanical designer with over 35 years of experience. I have a broad range of design experience in consumer, governmental, industrial and military part and product design. My opinion about the design having to do directly with my appliance is not very high and after talking with another local parts supplier discovered that this particular design is approximately 20 years old. I wonder how many dishwashers are leaking without the consumer realizing they have this problem. I followed the installation instructions provided by this site verbatim and the dishwasher still leaked like a sieve. This in my opinion goes back to my remarks concerning the design. This is a weak design at best and could benefit from an improvement in that area. After I installed the new parts, the push on nut (upon being seated onto the shaft for the drain valve flapper) was loose and spun freely. The push on nut did not properly compress the seal onto and around the flapper shaft nor into the valve housing. Water leaked through the seal as a result. I disassembled all of the parts again and placed a flat washer between the push on nut and the seal, to help compress the seal onto the flapper shaft and into the valve housing. The washer was a stainless steel flat washer with an ID that fit onto the shaft closely, but was a smaller OD than the seal. The washer was about 1/32" thick. Upon reassembly and observation, the dishwasher leak was stopped with the addition of the flat washer and my issue was resolved.
Pulled washer out about 6" without disconnecting any hoses. This way i could use both hands from the left side & front after i took the kick plate off.
Removed old basket, put new one in. New basket fits but it is larger then the old one so it takes up more room leaving less room for dishes. My dishwasher is apartment size.
The dishwasher was in a rental so I didn't want to spend the money for a new one. The part was expensive compared to a new (cheap) dishwasher. The order was shipped promptly and arrived when I expected even though it was Christmas time. The part fit perfectly and everything is back in place.
My wife had been washing dishes in the sink for a while but after Thanksgiving we loaded up the dishwasher . It wasnt making the usual noises and we realized that it wouldn't drain any water.
We ordered the pump kit by model number and it was a perfect match.(It was on our door step in 2 days with normal shipping!) Three bolts and a couple of electrical connections later and the pump was off The install was just as easy. The instructions were very easy to follow.It's great to find a company these days that knows what it is doing and does exactly what it says it will do. Kudos and thanks!
This seems to be a simple repair, but the push on nut is difficult to remove. Ended up damaging the case, so I am going to buy another dishwasher. If you plan to repair, make sure you pull the unit out to have plenty of room to work with.
Removed screws on the drain pump filter screens at the back of the dishwasher, unscrewed the check valve, screwed in the replacement unit, and re-affixed the filter screens.
I lived with the drain problem for 6 months and reviewed on line trouble shooting which all pointed me to a pump or solenoid valve problem. I pulled the unit and disassembled everything before noticing that the rubber washer/stopper at the top of the check valve had erroded away and was not preventing water from pumping back into the cabinet when the drain pump kicked on. Always check the condition of this check valve first if you dishwasher is not draining properly. It was so easy once I found the bad part.
I shut off water and pulled dish washer out removed all water. Turned waasher upside down. Removed sump housing screws and unscrewed pc fitting ,replaced new parts. Make sure things are tight before turning on water.
