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leaking dishwasher
took the door off after several failed attempts, which is easy to do - 2 scews. Then it was easier to find the channel the gasket fits into.
For all Frigidaire diswasher owners, after taking the door off, I realized it was the seal around the soap dispenser that was leaking, due to stripped screws, not the gasket. I rigged it with silicone caulk, but may have to replace that - looks easy, .
First I removed the bottom dish rack to gain access to the spray arm. I proceeded by pulling straight up on the bottom spray arm, it disconnected with gentle force. The replacement part was not identical, so I determined that it would work by inspecting hole patterns and heat shield configuration. Then I gently pushed the new spray arm onto the water supply tube making sure that the spray arm snapped into place. Due to extremely fast ground shipping (less than 20hrs from order to my door) the repair was done within 24 hrs! Boy...was my wife pleased!
I disconnected the power to the machine. Removed the bottom access panel and screws holding the dishwaher in the cabinet opening so I could carefully slide the dishwasher out. Taking note of the pump position at the bottom of the dishwasher I removed the two wire leads, screws and hoses(pliers). I installed the new part in the reverse order and was able to run the dishwasher for a cycle while it was out to make sure there were no leaks. Dishwasher runs great and the dishes seem cleaner. Fingers crossed. Thanks.
Cotrol board shorted out and burned up some wire connections.
Had to replace control board Part#:PS420961 on my Fridgidaire dishwasher. It shorted out and started to smoke. Thank god I was home. Had to turn power off at the breaker first thing. Removed the front control panel and cover. Unscrewed control board cover. Disconnected all terminal ends. (be careful here, the clips for the plugs snap easy and the one band wire just pulls up a little bit so you can remove it!) I took a picture with my phone for reference. Had to cut off two burned terminal ends, strip wires back, and crimp on new ones. I suggest using shrink wrap on them. I then pluged everything back in there spots and reassembled. I crossed my fingers and tuned breaker back on. Hit the start button and she fired right up! All good so far. Good luck!
Previous self-repair instructions provided on this site were very helpful. I started by removing items from under the sink and inspecting drainage and water hoses of the dishwasher to determine amount of "play" for sliding the washer out. Next, remove the two screws that secure the washer under the top of the counter. Then, remove the kickplate and barrier at the bottom. The washer then slid easily out far enough to explose the spring connector arms. I removed the old springs from the floor and the pieces of the old links (one link was ok, but I saved it for a spare). I installed the links and springs on both sides and connected to the first hole. By the way, the hole in the lower frame relatively close behind link is NOT the spring connection hole. There are a series of holes farther back. After testing the door and re-hooking the springs twice,I decided that the fourth hole gave the tension that I wanted. Now the door will come up about half way on its own, but will stay fully open when pulling out the empty bottom basket. Slide the washer back under the counter, being careful not to catch the insulation at the top and sides of the washer. Line up the top screw holes and install the screws. Install the barrier panel and kickplate at the bottom. I had to "fiddle" with the kick plate and barrier panel a little to get it right because I did not play close attention when removing them. I probably saved $100 by doing it myself. My wife said "It's just like new!"
This was too easy. I pulled out the bottom rack, spread apart the two clips which are at the bottom of the spray arm with my fingers and pulled out the old broken spray arm. The damage was visible. Then I took the new spray arm ( which looked different but still fit nicely) and gently pushed it into place. Done!
The nut was split down one side, so I first tried to sauder the nut back together. Saudering never goes well for me anyway, but I couldn't get a good enough seal around the nut to make it fit tightly. Then I had to cut off the clear plastic shield to get down in there, just before realizing you could just pull the white wire firmly and it would come loose from the nut. All I had to do then was unscrew the original nut, and screw on the new nut. Then, luckily I had mistakenly ordered an extra clear plastic shield and could replace the one I had previously cut. Dishwasher now runs like a charm!
Remove and replace the door gasket. Removed the 6 phillips head screws holding the top panel cover. This gives access to the latch assembly. Remove the two screw holding the latch in place. I removed the four wires one at a time with needle nose pliers and plugged them on the right spade of the new latch assembly. This assures getting them in the correct position. I then mounted the latch with the two screws and installed the cover with the 6 screws. Job done, piece of cake.
It is rather easy to repair. After you remove the screws that secure the top of the dishwasher to the countertop you can slide the disherwasher out far enough to gain access to the hose. The hose pulls off after you slide the spring clips down the hose far enough so they no longer grab. Then simply reverse the order and you're done. Less than 30 minutes and you should no longer have to hand wash your dishes!
replaced with new lower rack, out with the old, in with the new! Shipping was great new part arrived in 2 days! Great service, and will use again for all parts needed in the future, and will tell everyone about this site! Thanks a bunch!
I pulled out the upper rack and using pliers, unlatched the snap brackets on each side. I removed the upper rack, and while I held the glides still, my husband slid the new rack onto the glides. I then replaced the snap brackets and we were back in business.
The repair went very easy. Just opened the door , and pulled out the worn seal. Lined up the new seal and carefullly pushed new seal into place. Seal pushed in very smooth.
The latch was always hard to operate. My wife went to open the dishwasher door and the plastic handle broke off.
Delivery of this part was really fast. I ordered very early on a Thursday morning and the package was at my house Friday afternoon. This was a pretty simple repair. First you take the front panel off. There is an upper panel where the controls are and a lower finished apnel. Open the door, the screws are on the inside face of the door. Put a towel on the floor so the panel doesn't drop and scratch the floor or get damaged. Unscrew the panels so you can get to the door handle, it is held in with two torx screws (star shaped head). Take the handle off and remove the wires on the door switch. Installation is the reverse, mind that you install the wires on the right leads. The handle works better than the original ever did.
