First, remove the two access panels to the bottom of the dishwasher, each had two screws. Then, disconnect each old door cable and eyelet assembly, and the two springs. Now, connect the two new cable assemblies, and reconnect the two springs, one at a time, between the eyelets of the cable assemblies. Finally, replace the access panels
I removed the screws from inside door panel. Took door panel out. Noted the way the old gasket was placed, removed it and replaced with the new gasket. Replaced the door panel. Felt pretty proud of myself until I realized that the door lock wouldn't work when I was going to run it. I have now removed the door panel again and am trying to get the door lock lever to work.
Without any specific directions with the part (which would had been nice. If it wasn't for my husband I wouldn't have known where to start.) I had to carfully pull the dishwasher out of the cabinet (it wasn't heavy) to unplug the power supply. Then we unscrewed 2 screws on the top and the upper arm connection came off. We replaced it with the new one, screwed it back on, reconnected the power supply and pushed the dishwasher back where it belonged. It worked out very well. Also I want to say I am very happy with the length of time it took to get my part to me. (1 day) I was washing dishes it no time.
Had to remove entire lower unit from dishwasher but it is a tight fit between the pump inlet flange and the floor.The next problem was to get the E clip off of the valve shaft. I knew the E clip had to be a straight fit when put back on the shaft so I had to straighten out before putting it back on the shaft after putting the new seal on the shaft correctly.Put the solonoid back on and made sure the valve shaft turned freely. Next fun was getting the pump unit back in place. Not easy (clearance) but got-er done!
Pulled unit out of cabinet took two top screws out of spinner spray arm and put back together.Old sprayer was plugged up not letting wash go through.Thanks for helping me fix and not replace unit.Saved at least 400.
I removed the two screw at the top holding the dishwasher to the counter top; pulled on the unit - but found it stuck on something. Of course the hot water feed and the drain hose were still connected and would not let the unit move out any further as there was no slack. If I had thought about it - I would have disconnected these from under the adjacent sink. But I ended up lying on the floor trying to disconnect them from underneath the unit. It was a bit difficult as there was very little room to move the wrench and the screwdriver. Once done, the unit came out very easily. When tipped over I disconnected the old motor and replaced with the new. It was a very different design but fitted in very easily. The hanger took a bit of working out as the diagrams are not very clear. The wires and clips went together easily. Once I had cleaned everything around the motor and the gunge that cames from years or washing dishes, it went back the way it came out. Albeit with the same difficulty with feed and drain hose. We ran the unit with no dishes for a couple of times to clear our the muck left in the pipes when the system was down. Now we have a fully functioning dishwasher again. Cost $250 for the pump and motor as opposed to the $800+ unit my wife was looking at!
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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The pump shaft leaked
I used the pump/motor replacement kit. It was a very easy repair and the parts were a direct replacement with no modification necessary. I saved over $300.
Door seal was brittle and flat. Not a hard job to do just having to keep making sure the seal did not pop out on the bottom corners of the door. The seal would tare easy so have to be careful. Before you remove the old seal on the bottom of door there is a 4 inch space between the ends of the seal. Mark the spot with marker so you know where to start placing the new seal. Baffles were orginaly put in place with plummer putty, do not use this. Get GE clear seal is the best will hold forever but will come loose with a good tug. easy to clean out when replacing baffles again. Do not use any sealent when inserting the door seal just push into opening. Make sure you support the door when pushing down on door to put the seal in the slots. The hardest part is the bottom corners the seal tends to slip out I found that if I streached the seal over the openings and continued on and come back to the corners it was easier to make the seal slip in.
The wheels on the lower rack of our dishwasher kept falling off.
Removed the lower rack. Took off the old wheels. Put the axles on the new wheels which took a little manpower, but became easier once you did a couple (there are 8 wheels). Then snapped the new wheels on the rack which was really simple. The new design is much improved to the old one. The wheels glide better, then they ever did. We're sorry we didn't think of this repair years ago and the cost was a fraction of the cost of a new dishwasher.
There was a video on the page as the part. Done in a flash. The axle was a little hard to get into the wheel so I soaked it in a little hot water and it whet in like a charm.
The upper rack rollers are made of plastic after 5 years the plastic became brittle and broke so the rack fell.
Watched the video and swapped out the parts when they came. One of the arms that one of the rollers attached to was rusted and swollen had to remove the plastic coating and sand in order to get a good roller fit. Went super easy
