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Open oven door remove trays.. remove floor of oven...remove single screw holding heat shield... unscrew two srews holding ignitor and unclip plastic...done..reverse to install
After reading how others replaced their defective Gas Oven Igniter, I decided to attempt the project. My only mistake was Removing the Oven Door. Though it came off with ease, it was a complete bear to put back on. Once I removed the oven door, I located the two phillips head screws that held the bottom oven floor in place. One screw came off without much effort, however the other stripped and had to be drilled out. After removing the oven floor plate, I quickly located the Igniter and using a nut driver, unscrewed it. One of the two screws stripped on me and had to be replaced. The new part was put in position and the process was reversed. This is where I encounted a problem. After repeated attempts, I soon found that the oven door hindges had to be held in the open position with a flat head screwdriver in order to be put in place. I found no instructions or info on how to complete this process (even from Maytag) and only completed the tast by trial and error. I highly suggest NOT REMOVING THE OVEN DOOR to complete the repair. The repair itself is rather simple even with stripped screws.
I opend the bottom cover, which had for screws then , opened 2 screws that atached the igniter to the main gas pipe and pulled the whole wiring out and disconected the wiring , ordered the igniter two days later, I put the whole thing together in less than 5 minutes . put back the cover. and I tried it , everything was cool , accutaly hot and working .
Tested power coming into unit,then tested power going to igniter,both of which were good.Did a continuity check of igniter element and found it to be bad.Ordered one from PartSelect,recieved it in minimum time,removed the old one,installed the new one,works like a champ.
I started with pulling the base of the oven to examine the mechanism underneath. The hardest part of the whole thing was working the wire connection past the metal back of the oven. It required prying the metal away from the frame rail and wedging the wire connection through. Other than that it was unplugging the old, plugging in the new, and a few screws to reattach the igniter, heat sheilds, and oven base.
He took out the bottom of the oven floor...came out easy ..had to unplug the old part and installed the new one the same way.He did have to unscrew two pieces. The only difficult part was reaching to plug in. Not too bad. Now he could do it quick and easier. Problably 10 minutes the most. Stove works great and I can cook again. Makes me happy.Thanks for all your help.
When I decided to do an extra cleaning of the rqnge, I removed the knobs, along with all the other parts and soaked them in the sink....I cleaned the knobs and set them up on the dish drainer to dry for a minute while I cleaned the rest of the stove...I dried the knobs, paced them back on the stove.
The repairs was easy,once I found the problem I turned the gas off and unplug the power supply cord. For the oven gas valve I used a 5/8 wrench to take the gas supply line away from the side of the valve inside the over. I used a 1/4 nutdriver to remove the two screw holding the braket down over the valve. For the glow-bar I donnected the power supply plug and used a 1/4 nutdriver to remove two screw holding it in place next to the brun.
We ordered the replacement igniter and basically was very easy to replace. We ended up spending $50 for the part as opposed to spending $261.00 that Sears was going to charge.