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drip from door water dispenser
The 4 lines attached to water valve have compression fittings.New valve has pex fittings.I cut each line just behind the ferrel and inserted each line into the proper fitting and reattached the 3 electrical plugs.Turned water back on.I immediately got water from thr door without dripping.For whatever reason it was not making ice for the first 3 days,I pulled the plug on the icemaker solenoid and reattached.It is working now.
Freezer was cold but the fridge was warm. Back panel of fridge was building up frost
First of all Don't panic! you can do it and you can save a lot of $$$ if you do it yourself. A friend advice me to look it up online resources and came accross part select on YouTube .
The process: Defrost the fridge. Take down the panels on the fridge to have room to unscrew the back panels. Once you've taken the back panel out. You will see the thermostat right away. Replace it and voila you're done.
I pulled out the old support stud with a pair of pliers, pushed the new stud in, and gave it a few taps with the hammer to secure it in the fridge wall. For the door bin I just slid the new bin in place.
The door had a loud popping noise everytime you opened it.
The biggest part of the repair was getting everything out of the shelves in the door. I had to remove one phillips head screw from the plastic hinge cover on the top of the appliance. As per the owners manual I traced around the hinge with a pencil so I would be able to align the door to the same postion. Removed two screws with a nut driver and removed the top hinge. The magnetic strip held the door in place until I grabbed it and pulled it open then lifted it up off of the bottom hinge. I layed the door on the island counter and pried the bearing hinge out of the door stop and replaced it with the new one. I probably could have stopped there but figured the plate might have been worn so I remove one phillips head screw from the bottom hinge, lifted the plate off, and replaced it with the new one. I assembled everything in reverse order and voila, no more popping noises.
evaporator coil would freeze up solid. no air flow through coil; no cooling.
-unplug power cord.(safety first! -Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective. -use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up. -unclip thermostat from coil. -cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat. -clip on new defrost thermostat. -connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included) -replace coil cover. -plug power cord back in.
Hinge bearing broke causing door to rub when opened
I removed the screw in the plastic cover on the top of the fridge that covered the fridge side hinge first. Then, I removed the two nuts with a nut driver that hold the hinge in place. After removing the two nuts and the hinge, I lifted the door up and out of the bottom hinge and placed it on a flat surface. I used a pair of pliers next to pull out the broken hinge bearing from the bottom of the door itself. After removing the old bearing I inserted the new bearing in the door. Next, I put the door back on making sure the hinge went into the hinge bearing and put the door in the closed position. After that was all done and the door was set properly, I put the top hinge back on with the two screws and put the plastic cover back in place. Took 20min to complete. A second set of hands would have been helpful with putting the door back on, but it can be done by yourself.
Removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. Everything matched up perfectly.
I removed the old gate by using a flat head screw driver to pry open mouth. I then removed 2 bolts that held on the cage that hols the ice crushing blades. Then I inserted the new gate and used a screw driver to pry the mouth open again (it was more difficult to insert than remove). I then popped in the new gate and re-assembled the cage. It worked on the first shot with no problems!
This is the 3rd time I have attemped and successfully repaired major home appliances myself after the warrenty ran out. I'm sure I could buy a new appliance for the money I saved.
I shut the water off under the sink and removed the back piece on the refrigerator, unscrewed the water valve, cut the ends off each plastic hose and reinserted into the new water valve. Then rescrewed the water line into the new water valve and turned on the water. Unfortunately, I was not able to get water out of the door and the ice maker still doesn't make ice. While this was an easy procedure, it didn't help me. I'm not sure I needed to replace the water valve.
This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!
I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.
Very easy. I at first misunderstood the instructions. the fridge door remains closed. You pull out the water catch tray "outside" the door. someone said ice tray, thats why i thought i had to open the door to fix it. there are 3 screws that the water catch hides. once removed the control panel comes off which unplugs from bottom easily. then there are screws behind the control panel just removed. after those are unscrewed the rest tilts enough that u can uncrew the little metal bands that hold the arm. replace arm & reverse your efforts & your done. took less then 10 minutes.