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GIDP100JD3WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the GIDP100JD3WW
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Broken knob
Took off old knob...put on new one.

No problem!

2nd knob was bigger, but it works fine!
Parts Used:
Timer Knob
  • Kimi from Avoca, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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start switch was defective
First thing I did was find out the model and serial #'s of the dryer. I went to a major store to see if they had the part, found out that it had to be ordered and mailed to me. I decided to do it myself, I found your website and I ordered the part. I saved $10.00 by doing this. The part was very easy to remove and install. I just had to remove a small clamp that held the part on to the machine and make sure the 3 wires were secured after I installed the new part. Thank you!
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • Emerenciana from Lakeworth, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Very loud squeak with drum rotation
Key starting point is to remove top cover by removing two long screws located at the front of the cover
Remove control panel and it's bottom and side supports.
Remove short vent pipe by bending retainer tab.
Support the drum at the top using piece of rope.
Remove main rear cover (leave bottom attached).
Remove electric heating unit and install new bearing carrier from kit.
Reinstall the the heating unit
Remove three screws (inside the drum)to release the inner drum cover and release the bearing carrier.
Install new bearing carrier. Note: the three holes in the bearing carrier are not tapped, I suggest that the screws be installed (threads cut) into the bearing cover before attempting to install the bearing carrier.
Install the new bearing carrier. Note: pilot one of the holes using a small nail etc. then go on to install screws in the other two holes remove the pilot device and install the third screw.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • William from San Juan, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench set
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Dryer made a squeaking noise while running
I removed several torx srews across the back control panel. Removed two philips screws under top of front dryer door. Pulled up on top surface of dryer case. Removed two more screws on backside of front door panel. Pulled front door panel forward and inserted drum slides into slots that they just popped into with a small button rod to keep them in place. The old drum slides were completely worn down or fell off. It runs like a new one again. It is over 10 years old.
The new door handle just snapped into place.
Original door handle had been broken off for several years.
Parts Used:
Drum Bearing Slide - Green (Sold individually) Door Handle - White Drum Bearing Slide - White (Sold individually)
  • Kevin from East Peoria, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Timer knob was stripped
Popped the timer knob on and it was a perfect fit. Works great!
Parts Used:
Timer Knob
  • James from NAPLES, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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WAITING ON PART
Still waiting for your parts. over two weeks to get part which was a hinge for something, I don't know what, but not my dryer seal. You said you would refund shipping and wrong part and charge me for a new order. End result was I got charged extra shipping for your mistake. The part still is MIA and it has been 5 weeks since I originally ordered. Will never do business with you again.
Parts Used:
Foam Seal
  • MARTIN from MOUNTAIN VIEW, WY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
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Motor with fan broken
I received the motor fan broken due to bad packaging of the shipment. I tried twice to contact customer services but no response since 2 weeks. The motor is working well but i paid an additional cost for the broken fan.
Parts Used:
Drive Motor
  • Mohammed from SPRNGFLD GDNS, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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belt broke
had a great video to follow, made it easy to install.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • joseph a from VALLEY STREAM, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer's drum doesn't run
Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • ruoli from Germantown, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer turns on as soon as door is closed.
Gently pull off all knobs and put aside. Remove the panel screws using the star bit. Tip panel forward. Remove three wires from old switch and put them on same terminals on new switch. Use the screwdriver to gently pull up the old switch's locking arm from the slot in the front panel and rotate the old switch until it pops out of the front panel. Insert the new switch into the panel and rotate until the locking arm clicks into place. Replace front panel making sure no wires are pinched. Re-install the front panel screws and control knobs.
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • Douglas from ETOWAH, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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handle fell off
stuck it back in the holes just like the original handle. Had to do a little adjustment because I put screwdriver in them too many times to open the door after the original handle feel off, so the fit was loose. Fixed with tape.
Parts Used:
Door Handle - White
  • Lilly from CROSBY, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer wouldn't start
Unplugged the dryer. Removed the 4 star headed screws with a screwdriver. Tilted the console forward and lifted. I didn't have to slide mine to the right. Pulled the knob straight off the front of the console. Lifted the lock tab with the needle nose pliers and twisted the switch to the right. It popped right out. Pulled the wires off with the pliers. Be aware, there are three wires, two red and one black. The both red wires only connect to one terminal on the switch. It looked at first glance as if I had the wrong part. But those two wires are connected to each other so it was correct. Plugged those wires back on. Put the switch into the hole and twisted it back into place, the lock clicked in to place. Replaced the console and plugged it back in and it worked perfectly. Turned right on. This took me under 15 minutes to do. Steve is the man! This girl has been able to use his videos to repair the dryer 3 times, the washer once, and my dishwasher 3 times over the years!!
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • CHERI from CREEKSIDE, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dryer did not turn off when the door was opened and then closed.
Followed your video instructions and it worked exactly as described. You will be my source for all appliance repair parts.
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • Robert from SOMERSET, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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thumping noise with any kind of load
looked at video of dryer disassemble, replaced 4 bearing slides, reassembled. Dryer is perfect now , no noise. thank you for your parts.
Parts Used:
Drum Bearing Slide - Green (Sold individually) Drum Bearing Slide - White (Sold individually)
  • John from SONOMA, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer was making intermittent, loud, moaning and whistling-screeching noises (temporarily relieved by squirtin lubricant through the drum holes towards the bearing).
I used a flat head, a phillips head, and two sizes of sockets with my screwdriver to complete this project. I initially undid the control panel, but I don't think I needed to. I next took out two long screws that were holding the top of the cabinet on. These screws were just inside the doorway, directly above where the door sits when closed. I took the top off and set it aside. Being careful to mark which wire went to which lead, I undid the leads to the door open/closed switch. I next found two, black, hex-end screws, one each on the upper sides, towards the front, and undid these with a socket end on the screwdriver; being careful not to drop them as they came out. I then tilted the front panel out and up and set it aside. Note that the front opening holds the drum up so it can spin. Next, I tilted the front of the drum up, and pulled it outwards, till bearing at the back pulled out of the socket, and the drum dropped down enough that I could push the belt off the back of the drum. I then pulled the drum out through the front opening. I could see that the bearing was mostly worn away and metal was rubbing on metal. On the drum, I took off the air diffuser and the drum's half of the bearing assembly, and attached the new part of the bearing assembly, where the old one was. There was a metal disk that I was careful to reinsert in its former spot. I tried to make sure that all screws were tightened with equal force. Then I removed the entire bearing housing/blower assembly by undoing the outer screws that attached it ti the back wall of the cabinet, I rotated it outward at the top , pivoting around the compression fitting (no screws) at the base. I then removed the back half of the bearing housing, and replaced it. I needed to screw in the screws from the front while holding the spring-clip-thing in place (once installed, you can stick your finger through the hole in the bearing housing and feel the clip right behind it). I took this opportunity to clean all the excess lint out of the cabinet. I then replaced everything in reverse order until I got to the drum. I put the belt loosely arounf the drum, with the grooved/ridged side facing in. Then put the bearing (with drum), back in the socket. Feeling through the hole under the front of the drum, take the belt where it hangs off the drum TO YOUR RIGHT, run it under then up around the left side of the small pulley, then pull it to the right (above the small pulley) and around the right side of the big (tensioner) pulley, and let go. Note that there is a swithch in the tensioner that won't switch on unless there is enough tension on the belt! Put the front back on, lifting up the barrel from the inside, so that the barrel opening slides around the outside of the front's assembly. Ours seemed to fit more tightly than it had previously, into the felt padding around to bottom of the front assembly, but it seems to work fine? Screw in the two black, hex-head screws from the sides into the front, and re-attach the door-switch wires. Turn it on (carefully) to make sure it runs. Then attach the top, using the two long screws up through the door opening into the top. Ours is working much better than before - hotter, faster, quieter! Should we have lubricated the bearing with lithium grease?
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • BJ from WHEAT RIDGE, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the GIDP100JD3WW
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