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spray arm falls off
Turn off power at breaker box. Remove lower covers and 2 screws into counter top. Verify sufficient length on water and electrical connection to allow sliding dishwasher out approx. 2/3. I disconnected the electrical at the j box on the dishwasher. If you must disconnect the water line, shut off supply, usually located under nearby sink, and provide a rag or sponge for small amounts of water left in supply line. Carefully pull back the insulation to expose two screws on top where water line runs into the center. Pull the top tray part way out and reach in to hold the spray arm while removing the screws. The spray arm will easily drop out. Hold the new spray arm in place making sure the raised screw posts push into the holes, then reinstall the two screws. Done. Pull insulation back into place, retape if necessary. Reconnect electrical and water if necessary. Slide unit back in, checking alinement. Rescrew to counter top and reinstall lower covers. Task complete. 15 mins if prepared. 30 mins if both elect. & water are disconnected and you are somewhat hesitant.
My suggestion is to replace all four rollers at the same time since they are all the same age. Fortunately, four rollers come in each pack you order. You need to remove the end cap on borh metal rack rods which takes a little doing. You cannot just pull the caps off. You need to twist the end cap to free up the little catch at the rear of the end cap. Once the end caps are off, just pull of the old rollers and install the new ones, replace the end caps and you're done.
The wheels kept falling off the lower carriage in our dishwasher.
Each replacement wheel came in two parts: the wheel itself and the clip which had to be pushed through the center hole in the wheel in order to attach each wheel to the carriage that holds dishes. I had difficulty assembling the clips and wheels until I ran the clips under hot water to soften them. This made it possible to assemble the wheels and attach them to the dish carriage. I would have preferred the wheels to have come assembled, particularly given the price of each one.
The replacement of door rubber seal was easy as well as the corner boot tub baffles. I did take the door off to make cleaning and installing seal easy. I wish your web site would recommend if replacing certain parts, additional parts should be replaced at the same time. For my project I should have replaced the 3 inch separate seal located inside bottom of door. You can't see it until removal of the door. I am thankful for the easy to follow instructions other people wrote and it made the job much less stressful..
The new rollers snapped into place on the rack, by simply pushing them in. I was able to do it by hand, my wife could not do the same, so you might use some pliers.
It turned out to be an easier job than I thought it was going to be. Of course, I was still a bit surprised it worked right and didn't leak once I was done.
I started by taking off the servo that opens up the drain valve. I didn't think I could take out and replace the shaft seal from this position so I took the whole motor and drain assembly out by loosening the sump and pump clamps. This allowed me to wiggle out the whole mechanism. One plug and a ground wire had to be undone but that was it. The Push On Nut was the worst part - pain to take off - worse to get a new one on. I wasn't sure (still not) if I could get it in the right place. Once I got everything back together and the servo mount on it seemed to hold the nut in the right place.
I tested it and yelled "it doesn't leak!" my wife promptly said "Yet!".
We have run the dishwasher twice - so far - no leaks!
I couldn't have done it with out PartSelect's prompt service, diagrams, and part photos. I don't want to fix any more appliances but if I have to PartSelect is where I'll come for parts and diagrams.
This seems to be a simple repair, but the push on nut is difficult to remove. Ended up damaging the case, so I am going to buy another dishwasher. If you plan to repair, make sure you pull the unit out to have plenty of room to work with.
My husband said it was easy. But the gasket didn't solve the problem. So we had to order another part. We had to order the little black stoppers that go in the hinge area. Still leaked so my husband took them back out and cleaned the area. Then put some kind of sealant in and replaced the black robber things. So far that worked.
Based on what I read from other people and partselect, it was fairly easy to ascertain what was wrong. I removed the solonoid valve by removing the two screws that held in place. Had to clean up the solonoid valve rod due to water leaking into it by running it on a wire brush. Pulled out the stop nut and old seal and replaced it with the new seal. Could not get the new stop nut on but it does not seem to move so let it go. Have to say that reading all the comments certainly helped me with the repair. Additionally, ordered parts by email at 10:30 in the morning and receiving them the very next day. Could not believe they were delivered so quickly.
