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Dryer Drum was squeaking.
Looked up the problem and solution on the web and,ah-ha, drum slides should be the cure. Easy to install, . Back to the internet to discover that after the slides, the bearing and felt liner were the next likely culprits. Again easy install, but to no avail. Calling in the pros.
Removed the 3 star screws, putting in a piece if wire as I removed them. Wire was not stiff enough and let the drum slip thus binding making it hard to remove. Started over. Finally called a friend for help. I bought 3 tension pins the same size as the screws. When removing the diffuser screws, insert a tension pin in the hole as you remove each of the screws. The tension pins are hard metal and do not have a head. The diffuser will slip over them. After the diffuser was in place, we turned on the dryer to make sure it was running ok. I noticed what looked like lint toward the front. It was part of the felt gasket on the front of the drum and front of the dryer. We removed the screws on the dryer front and pulled it forward. The felt was rethreaded into its slot, put the front back in place,and replaced the screws that hold everything in place. If you turn the part of the dryer that spins by hand, make sure you are turning it in the correct direction. Turning it the wrong way is probably what caused the felt gasket to come loose causing more work.
Removed the top of the dryer 2 screws. procedure open dryer door. At the top of the dryer door their is two screws left to right, Remove them and lift top off. Inside where the top was is two screws left to right. Remove the two screws and take the front panel off. Carefull not to pull wireing loose. Lean door against something so you don't have to disasemble wireing. Pull broken belt out and install new belt around tumbler and up and over tension pulley and pull down and slip over the motor pulley. Your'e done. Reassemble front then top. My dryer ran just fine after these steps. The question and answers helped me do this.
This is a space saver one piece unit with dryer on top. I first removed ten screws that hold the top on, I then removed four more screws that hold the front service cover on and two last screws that hold the rear service cover on. Now I seperated the front cover of the dryer from the dryer tumbler tub and slipped the new belt around the tub, then at the rear service cover I feed the belt through the tensioner and back onto the motor pully. Now just put the covers back in reverse order of removal and all done! "Piece of cake" Ron
Parts arrived well in time, exactly what was needed. The latch was a snap-in process. The strike require gentile use of a pliers, and went in quickly. Thanks!
Googled possible problem where noise was coming from. Went to Parts Select web site. Ordered felt and drum bracket. Removed screws behind control knobs and removed top of dryer. Removed two screws on front inside dryer (left/right side) this allowed me to remove front panel of dryer. Unattached wires. Drum bracket is located above door opening...pretty much snaps out, felt piece is located on bottom bracket. Felt piece was replaced and new top bracket replaced. Reattach wires, lift drum slightly to fit doo iInto place. Dryer still made noise. Noticed I did not have any drum slides! Drum slides slide into top of front bracket at 10/2 o'clock position and 11/1o'clock. Easy and very inexpensive dryer repair!! My husband was very impressed that I could take dryer apart and fix!!!
Unscrew the top panel parts three screws. Then another three or six screws to get to the dryer front which needs only to lift straight up about two inches. Pull back slightly and replace the teflon slides. To replace the slides they lay on a tiny plastic pin and slightly bend into the slot to hold them in place. Reseat the dryer drum. Reverse the process to make it like new. From the time you start hearing the dryer squeak, BE CERTAIN to replace these within a week or two (depending on usage.)Otherwise, you may wear out the housing where the teflon would rest. If that happens, you will be out more money to replace the housing and a lot more time to install. Been there and done that. Trust me.
There is a plastic female closure part in the dryer door that wouldn't close tightly around the metal male closure on the dryer. I popped out the plastic square with a screwdriver, popped the new plastic closure in with my thumb. Works great. I never even installed the new metal portion of the latch.
When the dryer is running it makes a screachy, squeaky noise.
Easier than I thought it would be. I was hoping it was the front bearing because replacing the rear bearing looked pretty gnarly. Unplugged the dryer from the outlet. Removed two screws inside the door frame. Lifted the top off. Unscrewed the two screws holding the front on. Lifted the front panel off, careful of the wires going to the door. Popped out the old front bearing by releasing the two clips at the top. The old bearing was pretty trashed. The two grey/green slides were in tatters and one of the white ones was missing. Not too much lint inside the dryer, but the lint trap was pretty clogged. Cleaned the insides out with the shop-vac. Inserted the new slides into the new bearing an snapped it back into place, careful to make sure the light went in the hole. The felt gasket at the botton was in good shape so did not replace it. Replaced the panels screwed them back to together and it fired up smooth and quiet.
I removed the top of the dryer and saw that the top two drum slides where gone and the drum bearing itself was damaged I Temporally placed the parts on the drum bearing until I got the new one, that stopped the squeaking noise. All I needed to do was place the part with the hole on the little hook and then sled the other part in its slot.
remove front and top cannover's from dryer.remove plastic inside bearing housing and plastic bearing slides replace worn out bearing slides with new ones. needed 4 bearings direction suggested only two....
Dishwasher would not switch on whenon/off lever was pulled accross
Switch off the circuit breaker supplying power to the dishwasher.
Remove the 6 screws that hold the plastic face of the inside of the dishwasher door, and lift out the inside liner. This may be a good time to wash it down, as it is probably a little messy. It may also be a good idea to put something a little heavy onto the door to keep it laying in the open position as the springs will keep lifting it back up.
Remove the screw holding the spring device down over the interlock switches and the thin plastic cover and put aside ready for re-installing again later. The spring may have flattened a bit and it may be a good idea to bend the end open, just a little, to give it back some tension. This is the spring that activates the interlock switches when you latch the door.
Unclip the faulty Interlock Switch by pushing (with your fingers) the little plastic clip holding it in and lifting it out of its cradle. If the switch to be replaced is the one furthest from the machine (or nearest the top of the door) you will have to take the bottom one out first so that the clip can be released.
Using small pliers pull the electric connectors off the faulty switch and reconnect to the new switch in the same way that the faulty one was wired.
Snap the switch (or switches) back into place in the cradle.
Replace the spring activator along with the plastic sheeting and screw that back in.
Put the inside of the now clean door back down into place, making sure the on/off lever is inserted through the slot in the front of the door, and that the piece of Styrofoam is inserted back into position.
Screw the screws back in, starting with the one at the top center nearest the on/off lever and then work your way down the sides from top to bottom.
Switch the circuit breaker back on and give it a whirl. Enjoy!
