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Lint has been bypassing the lint filter and building up in the fan (and duct)
I noticed that drying time was increasing. I took the covers off the dryer to reach the fan and discovered that the squirrel cage fan buckets were packed with lint, and therefore not moving the air as intended. This was because the original lint filter caught most of the lint, but some bypassed the lint filter and then built up in the fan wheel buckets. The lint bypassed the lint filter because there was no felt gasket on the original filter as far as I can tell. I replaced the lint filter...and the replacement filter includes the felt seal (and fits tightly in the slide). The original lint filter has a provision for the felt seal, but I don't recall ever seeing it (and I did not see remnants of it in the fan or duct). As a matter of fact, I was always suspicious of how loosely the lint filter fit in the slide. The felt seal is not available as a replacement part from Maytag. That said, felt material 3/16"x1/2"x10ft is available from McMaster-Carr...and it fits nicely in the original lint filter.
Unplugged the dryer from the electrical outlet. Simply removed the screws holding the long plate behind the dryer controls. Took two screws out that attached the failed timer to the dryer. Was careful to pull wiring out of the failed timer one wire at a time, replacing the wires into the new timer so as to be sure the wires were attached to the new timer in the right sequence. Some of the wires were difficult to remove from the failed timer, needed to use a pliers or a screw driver to remove some of the wires. Attached the new timer to the dryer with two screws as the failed timer had been attached. Replaced the back panel to the dryer & plugged the dryer back in to the electrical outlet.
Removed the back of the dryer about 8 screws. Removed the Thermostat 250 F and replaced with new. Dries a load of clothes in one cycle on medium. Not bad for a 16 dollar part. I am a computer tech and I am used to taking computers a part but I think most people that are in anyway mechanically inclined and can look at a diagram could do this and save yourself a lot of money.
Dryer produced no heat. My lint trap was full of wet lint.
I saw some videos suggesting you remove the back panel.Then I saw a video where only the kick plate was removed and the element was removed that way. I removed both the back panel and kick plate.At first I thought I was wasting my time however once I got started I was glad I removed both back and front. There was a significant amount of lint in the bottom of the dryer which made it easier to remove. It also made it easier to remove the heater element. I hope this helps.
After checking the temperature safeties, I replaced the Push-To-Start switch. This did not solve my problem, so I replaced the Timer Switch assembly, which did solve my problem. Both switches are very simple to replace. Unplug the dryer, use your nut driver to remove the 6 screws holding the back control cover. For the Start switch, remove the control knob, remove the 2 screws holding it it. Unplug the wires, turn the switch housing 1/4 turn clockwise, and remove it from the opening. Reverse the process to install the new switch. For the Timer Assembly, just a bit trickier. Remove the knob, remove the 2 screws holding the assembly. Unlike the Start switch, the Timer Assembly has multiple wires. Pull the old timer assembly out, and, one-by-one, move wires from the old Assembly to the new Assembly, being sure to land them on the proper post. Once you have done this, return the Assembly to the mounting hole. A very simple repair. Even though I spent $160 chasing the problem, I still came out cheaper than calling a repairman.
Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.
I removed the back panel and tested the Thermal Fuse, the Thermostat and the Heating Element with a meter. The Thermal Fuse gave a bad reading. I proceeded to clean the dryer and lint pipe of all lent. I installed the new Thermal Fuse and put the back panel back on the dryer. The dryer worked for two loads of clothes and the Thermal Fuse blow again. I'm now at the end of my rope. I don't know what else to check and I can't continue to buy parts for only two loads. I guess I will have to invest in a new dryer.
Opened access door, noticed main power wire to heating element was partially melted. This was caused by a bad connection to the drying element, loose. Removed heating element assembly. Cut bad section of wire and added new connection. While doing this the thermostats plastic casing cap came off ! Probably due to exessive heat / resistance from the bad connection. This confirmed why there was no heat. Intalled new thermostat and and am now good to go !
Loud squealing when the dryer was running...especially on start up.
Simply followed the video that accompanied the part confirmation. Removed the top and front of the dryer. Removed the drum and belt. Unbolted (1 bolt) the Idler pulley and bracket and bolted on the new one. Reversed the sequence of disassembly and tried it out. The only minor difficulty was slipping the belt over the idler pulley after the drum was in place. This is where a second set of hands might be helpful to hold up the drum, while the other person puts the belt in place. Other than that, this was a simple repair and probably saved a couple hundred dollars for about 1.5 hours of my time. Thanks for the video...it was right on point, and made the job much easier.
I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.
Took, back cover out,but first i disconect the electricity,i give a fast look,looking for anything wrong and i saw a thermostar burn out in the element case,the bottom one,a thermostart 250 f. but a did a search in the internet,and found that when a bottom thermostart burn out, the top one had to be change,so i did a continuity text in the top one and was open ,i have it,a used one, change and connect the dryer to the Electrical outlet and (walac)it start the dryer,problem solve
Part came in about 3 days. After reading and checking what was wrong with the Dryer -- which i read if there was no noise coming from the dryer it was the door switch, Looked up the part number and then saw a video that showed how to install the door switch. The video was so informative and precise on everything you had to do and easy Saved money on a service call.
