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The rollers on the bottom rack of my GE Monogram Dishwasher all broke and melted so opening and closing the rack was extremely difficult!
It couldn't have been easier. I installed the new wheels in seconds and the rack glides as perfectly as the day it was installed 11 years ago! Perfection! Your stellar website made it so easy to find the correct parts. BRAVO!!!!! I laughed! I cried! I am so ECSTATIC!!!!!
delivery of part was very quick, and my husband was able to remove the old part and install the new in about 10 minutes. No service call; no new rack; just a washer that is easy to use again.
1. Turn off water supply. 2. Remove the metal toe kick plate/insulation at the bottom of the dishwasher. 3. Remove hose to supply valve. 4. Take electrical plug off old valve. 5. Remove float valve because it was mounted it right in the way of the 2 screws on the inlet valve bracket. 6. Remove those 2 screws now you can get to them, and move the inlet valve to one side so you can get to the hose clamp for the rubber hose out of the valve going to the dishwasher. 7, Take the old valve and bracket out, mount new valve on the bracket, crawl back down on the floor, reinstall rubber hose and bracket, and float valve and finally inlet hose. 8. Turn water on. Check hose connections for leaks. Yep, outlet hose didn't clamp enough now, allowing a drip. 9. Repeat the whole process AGAIN. Replace little clamp with a REAL hose clamp, reinstall the thing again. No leak this time. 10. Test run dishwasher thru a cycle. Check again for leaks at hose connections. OK ? Reinstall insulation pieces and toe kick plate.
This was simple. I took the door apart with a portable screw driver. Then I detached the wires and unscrewed the old module and replaced it. I then put the door back together, loaded the dishwasher and it cleaned my dishes. Even for this `old dog' it was easy.
The plastic wheels kept falling off the bottom rack of the dishwasher
The old wheels and attachment brackets were easily removed since they were always falling off. I ordered all new brackets and wheels, but it turns out I didn't need new wheels. If your original wheels are in good condition, they are the same size as the new ones and fit the new brackets. The new attachment brackets are built differently than the ones that came with the dishwasher, but (a good thing considering the originals only lasted 1 1/2 years). The new brackets and wheels snapped together and snapped into place on the dishwasher in minutes--no tools were needed. It took longer to cut the parts out of the packaging than to install them. The bottom rack now rolls out like it did when it was brand new. Definitely worth the few dollars in parts.
Simply remove broken wheels and clip on replacements. No tools are necessary for this fix and the replacement was inexpensive and easy to install. The kit worked beautifully.
See GE web site for repair instructions. Take out screws at top of door. Slide unit out there is a spring on each side of the door just look at the good one for details. Easy fix. About 30 minutes.
Dishes were not drying inside the dishwasher after the dishwasher cycle completed
The installation video that is on the website with the part is very helpful & easy to follow. The wires that attach to the heating element & the nuts that hold it in place are actually located a few inches off the ground so I didn't need to tip the machine over to pull them out & unscrew the nuts. All I had to do was unscrew the screws that hold the dishwasher in place under the counter next to the sink, pull it out & was able to reach the wires underneath it. The actual repair took me less than 30 minutes, I marked it as 30-60 because during the somehow the water line going to the dishwasher had come loose from under the sink (not at the dishwasher) & because of this I had to stop midway to deal with some loose water & tighten things back up. I would recommend following the video, there really isn't much more to add that would be helpful.
The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.
When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.
I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.
Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.
My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.
TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.
Per ps video. Really easy. Disconnect power, Remove front lower panel, remove Power leads, 2 installation bolts, remove 2 spring clamps on feed/exit hoses,reinstall.