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Diswasher was leaking
Drain hose elbow (#326) had a crack in it. Disconnected power, slid dishwasher out and laid on its back. Hose had two pinch clamps to remove. Replace old hose with new one and used standard hose clamps. Put dishwasher back in place and hooked power back up. Entire process took less than 30 minutes. PartSelect had elbow for about $6. GE does not sell just the elbow. They sell whole pump setup for about $106.
1. Take a picture of the old rack in the dishwasher! Just in case! 2. Remove rail channel end caps and place them on the tabletop on the correct side to make sure you put them back on the correct side. 3. Remove old rack. 4. Carefully snap off the water sprinkling unit. (carefully push down tabs so they don't break). 5. Using your picture as a reference (!) snap the water sprinkling unit on the new rack (it's easy). 6. Put the new rack back onto the rail channel and replace the end caps.
Done! Very easy installation ! Rack was not nearly as expensive as I anticipated and was delivered quickly. Note: You get the rack only. All ot the other parts are from the old unit.
The part did not fit at all but not worth it to me to return it. The part I need is about 20 inches in length and the one sent was about 10 inches. I will simply call for this dishwasher to be repaired or replaced.
Wife said Dishes were not Drying and leaving Spots !
I tested Heating Element with Ohm Meter-Direct Short (if open it would have been bad and I would need to replace the element. Per the Website Troubleshooting for GE dishwasher, it said Heating Element (65%), Float Switch (32%), or Computer Board (only 3% Chance of it being board). So I ordered Float Switch. Later I noticed that the dishwasher would not change wash cycles from Heavy, Normal or Light. So I turned the Circuit Breaker on and off. This fixed the Wash Cycle. When the Float Switch Came in, I installed it in a few minutes watching the video on the GE Troubleshooting Page. Later when it was running I checked the operation and when I opened the door, the wife says seeing the steaming water, You fixed it, the Water is Hot now ! It was all about Hot Water, not the Heating Element at all ! And I think everything was fixed when I flipped the Circuit Breaker on and off and re-set the computer board. I think replacing the Float Switch was good maintenance, cause it was really dirty and needed to be replaced soon anyway. And it may have avoided my wife's next misdiagnosis with our dishwasher. This was 2 weeks ago, and all is well. Sincerely, Scott
-Disabled power. -1/4” nut driver to take off kickplate. -Unplug wires harness to door -Dismount dishwasher from cabinets and pull out 4-6 inches -uncouple spring pulley from door hinges. -Open dishwasher door about 4 inches and pull out and up to remove -Lay door down and remove 4 -T20 star bolts and two 1/4” bolts from door hinges(the door hinge has four bolts, but only remove one from each hinge that connects to the inner plastic door) -remove vent cap and push up on interior plastic door casing to separate outer and inner door. -Unbolt the soap dispenser module via 1/4” bolts and replace with new module. (be sure to line up module and gasket properly, installing 1/4inch bolts crossways, slowly tightening each bolt for a perfect seal). -Reassemble the inner/outer doors and reattach to dishwasher in reverse order. Be sure to plug the doors electric harness and kickplate. -Plug the dishwasher back in and run it through a test.
I recently replaced the user interface, which took about 30 minutes. A week later replaced the soap dispenser module, which took 20 minutes. Disassembling the door was easier the second round.
I would read this project very easy for somebody with technical skills and easy with no prior skills
The dishwasher was filling normally, but was not heating the wash water nor heating the dishes for the final dry. Dishes were not being properly cleaned and were not at all dry after the cycle.
I replaced the flood switch following instructions shown in readily available YouTube videos. In short, you remove the coarse and fine filters, then take out the bracket holding in the flood switch and finally the switch itself. After replacing the switch, the dishwasher works normally again.
Two tines broke off the original divider in the bottom rack
The part is held in with two plastic clips, which are easy to unclip. The part needed to be slightly flexed to release it and the new part went in the same way the old one came off. One issue: The replacement part had one extra row of tines that encroached on the silverware basket. As it turned out, one tine fit between basket sections and the other fit through the hole in the bottom of the basket and it doesn't interfere with utensils so it turned out not to be a problem.
I had to replace a docking port. Parts Select had the part, labeled as stainless, just as this survey indicates. Well folks, the part I received is 100% plastic. It it the correct part, just not stainless. Should it have been stainless due to a faulty plastic design? I don’t know.
I used Parts Select for the simple directions for installation. I was eventually linked to a YouTube video for a completely different docking port. Does my part slip on? Does it press in? I don’t know.
Needless to say, this has been a cheap but frustrating ordeal that is not yet over. Thanks for having the stainless, but really plastic, part and for having directions for some other part available.