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Door would pop open after starting dishwasher numerous times before latching would catch.
Removed two latch screws and one electrical connection, Removed two screws that hold D/W to countertop, pulled D/W out enough to remove the old latch, install new latch, push D/W back into place, rescrew to counter top and rescrew the two latch screws. This problem happened since new, had repairmen twice and they did nothing but move the dishwasher stating it needed alignment, never mentioned this easy repair....
washer would not turn on - start button light would flash but not turn washer on
The main board is located under the washer in metal box accessed by removal of front plate at bottom. Removal of 2 screws on front of metal box allows board to drop down. However, very cumbersome to work on your back on floor in small space. I took the easy way and slid the washer out of cabinet, then turned washer ( it's light weight) on its back to access & remove old board and easily replace with new one. Also one of the connector plugs had to be replaced wired into the power connection made me very glad I was not working on my back ! Then simply turn washer upright and slide back into its cubby hole under counter.
Looked up the replacement part on YouTube, watched a video and followed the instructions. Part ordered was the correct part and the video showed how to access for replacing. Watched a different video for hooking up the disconnected springs that allow the door to lower and close smoothly. Whole process for repairs was less than 30 minutes.
There was no repair -- it was a simple snap-in replacement of lower spray arm assembly. The shaft holding the lower spray arm in place is plastic so of course it broke when a utensil blocked the arm from spinning.
I appreciate the Parts Select company for enabling me to purchase a replacement part though that allows me to keep my old dishwasher working.
Watched YouTube video on how to diagnose problems. Once part was identified ordered from Partselect.com and replaced the user interface circuit board. Dishwasher is now working.
Upper and lower dishwasher racks were rusted after only 2+ years
The upper rack required removal and reinstallation of the end caps and spray arm. Not a problem, just went on YouTube and watched the videos. The lower rack was just a matter of removing the old and installing the new. Yes, the utensil basket can not be replaced in the front, it has to be placed in the bottom rack. I installed mine on the right hand side. Maybe it isn't the best option (thanks GE), but it is better than rust on the dishes.
Replace all three spray arms and knocking sound disappeared. Unscrewed counter clockwise old sprayer arms and lifted. Replaced with new sprayer arms and noise disappeared.
Followed video instructions step by step. I was fortunate i had enough slack in water, electric and discharge lines to avoid disconnecting.
Two wrinkles 1. wire clips on my door had to be pulled/pried loose from door and there were two not one
2. could not slide dishwasher out after lowering adjusters and figured out it was the mounting tabs bumpimng the granite countertop, thus the use of putty knives to slide the dishwasher out.
Removed the top two screws that hold the dishwasher to the cabinet , remove the two screws on the bottom panel and remove the panel. Screw the levelers all of the way up and pull out the dishwasher about 6 to 8 inch. Hook the new cabe on the spring and pull around pulley and attach it to the door bracket. I replaced both cables. Reverse to complete.
