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spin cycle slow, clothes too wet
turned washer on side to get at the bolts holding motor. loosen bolts. remove flexable basket for water pump or one end of it. slide motor to loosen belt. remove and replace belt. use large screwdriver on motor to hold tension on belt while tightening nuts. hardest part was getting clamps back on the rubber basket.
Took front of washer off,found that all of the straps were broke ,removed two small bolts from each strap pulled plastic support from from broken strap and put it in new strap,put plastic supported end of strap in first put bolt in and mounted other end to drum,easy job just about any one with common since could do it.Got to go laundry to wash :-)
I noticed the belt was off, first, then pulled it back on. Washer worked, but very noisily, as belt continued slippage. I bought new belt after reading how to repair, then when it arrived, I read how someone installed it without having to remove bolt, etc. I tried and succeeded. It agitates just fine, but stalls when spinning. It's like the belt is too tight, now. i am gonna try rotating the rotating parts to see if that will help loosen it.
After reading all the repair info and reviewing the diagram for my wash machine on this website I was ready to tear into my washer. I removed the front panel and lid to access the tub, pulled out the plastic agitator and revealed the broken inner base hub. The base hub was cracked half way around causing the inner tub to drop down and drag on the outer tub, making the washer sound like it was coming through the wall on a spin cycle. I then unbolted the plastic cap and removed it revealing the hub nut. The most valuable piece of advice in the repair info was abouthe hub nut being a laft hand thread (clockwise to loosen)and that it was on really tight and hard to remove. I put a short 8" pipe wrench on it, because of the lack of clearance in the tub, and hit it with the handle of a all steel hammer to break it loose. Unbolted the balancing straps (4) on the plastic top rim cap that holds the tub in place, unsnapped and removed it, then carefully pulled out the tub. I also had to unscrew the the control panel to reveal and remove the 4 screws holding the fill tube brace so I could push it back to remove the tub. I then took the inner tub outside and took it apart, 3 parts. The top plastic rim, the tub, and the broken base hub that are held together with torx screws. Then it was cleanup time, very dirty on the inside, used a garden hose, scrub brush, sponge, and soap. Cleaned up the hub nut threads with a wire brush and then the outer tub withe a sponge and shop vac. When the base hub broke it caused the inner tub and outer tub to rub together making a groove and plastic shards on the bottom of the outer tub that I had to scrape and sand smooth. A shop vac an absolute necessity in getting all the grime and plastic crumbs out of the outer tub so they don't get in and clog the pump. I received the replacement parts in 2 days! Reassembled in reverse order and everything worked great! Not a bad project at all when you know what to expect, thanks to Part Select.com.
First and foremost, the job would have taken 2 hrs instead of 8 hrs. The problem was that no one on the help instructions said that the Hub Nut had a LEFT HAND thread and suggested to just break the nut off. Well, after chiseling off most of the nut I drilled small holes through the nut and removed the nut pieces. However; I learned that I had damaged the transmission seal and had to buy a new transmission $183. Had I known this the job would have taken much less time and at a cost of about $50. PS: The washer runs great.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Broken tub strap, hub, an cracked outter tub
Repair went good, only wish i had bought a new tub seal, washer, an split ring....but i managed to save the original ones an it seems to be working like new again! thanks Partselect!!!!
Originally my water level sensor was broken. When I was repairing that, I noticed that the dampening straps were broken. Replacing them was easy. The hardest part was remembering how to open the top. I just searched the internet until I found the answer. I can't remember it all right now, but the key was to slide a putty knife in between the top and the front to pop open the body.
Took about 10 Minutes to have my washer up and running again. So easy, and I almost bought a new washer! Fixed it before my husband got home from work. Thank you PartSelect!
Tub made banging noise when stopping from spin cycle
I notice a strange noise when ever the tub would shut down from a spin cycle. When I would load clothes it seemed that the basket had to much lateral movement. I looked between the top of the frame & basket & found 2 of the dampening straps had broken. Ordered 4 of them to replace all the straps.
Replacement was easy. I popped the front cover of the machine off. Remove 2 screws which held the top down which gave easy access to the straps. The straps are held in place by 2 screws so it was a simple process of removing the screws, removing the straps from their anchors & reinstalling the screws with the new straps. Job done. Reinstall the top & front of the machine & put the wife back to work.
First I removed the front panel using the screw driver. I removed the old belt which was in the bottom of the washer. I placed the new belt on the motor and adjusted the pullies. I replaced the front panel. The washer spins much better now than it had for the past year.
washer had heavy wet clothes left after spin cycle
The trick is to pull the front cover off by using a putty knife .slide it under the cover at both front corners.it will click on each corner.then pull front cover off .lift off the bottom catch hooks.look for the pump on the bottom right side.unplug the wite connector .take 2-5/16 bolts out holding the bracket.then grab a pliers .squeeze the hose clamps and pull the 2 hoses off.assemble new pump.
water wouldn't stop pouring into the machine, would not spin water out
unplug machine and turn off water at the valve. the pressure switch is located behind the water level control knob. remove the knobs from the panel, then remove the panel on the top back of the machine and remove the wires from the pressure switch. unplug switch. attach wires to new switch and plug into place. replace panel and replace all the knobs.turn on the water valve and plug into outlet.
Washer did not drain completely with water on floor, drain pump frozen.
After unplugging the washer, I drained remaining water from washer tub using my Wet/Dry vac. Ordered new pump Sunday night from PartSelect, 'Standard delivery', part arrived Tuesday morning. Removal & installation took less than 20 minutes.
The wife told me that the wash just wasn’t coming out very clean.
The wife told me that the wash just wasn’t coming out very clean. So I went to check it out and found that the agitator was just moving freely. Upon closer inspection I found that the coupler had stripped. I was unable to get the agitator free from the coupler so I had to drill out the inside top of the agitator in order to get at the bold that held the coupler in place. Once I got that out the rest was real simple. Just bolt in the new coupler and snap in the new agitator into place. That can be harder that you think. I used a block of wood laid across the top and just tapped it with a hammer to set the unit in place. Make sure that when you take it apart to save the bolt and the old cap unless you ordered a new cap.
Unscrew the 2 screws holding the drain hose clip to the machine - use bucket to get an excess water - remove bad drain line - I installed a new drain hose clip as well - make sure you put the clip on at the same position as the previous hose - push house firmly into opening and screw into machine - pretty easy repair - and I'm a novice
