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Freezer thawing then re-freezing
The refrigerator was staying in defrost too long allowing the temperature to rise to the point that part of the ice (probably some of the food too) to melt then re-freeze. I first changed out the temp sensor and thermostat because I wanted to try the cheap stuff first but that didn't fix it, I should have gone with the mainboard first as it was the most likely cause. After putting in the new mainboard in the thing has worked perfectly since. The board was extremely easy to change, take the metal cover off with a nut driver. Carefully unplug the wires from old board and remove the board. The board is mounted on some plastic standoffs that expand after passing through the board, some of these came out while i was disconnecting the wires but some were there to stay until I figured out that I needed to squeeze the top of them to release the board. After getting the old board out just put the new one on the standoffs and connect the wires. Put the cover back on and DONE!
NOTES: The new board had some extra connectors that my old one did not, but the correct connectors were still in the old locations. The instructions that came with the board did talk about making some modifications to the refrigerator wiring on certain models, but that didn't apply to me. If I remember right the models requiring modification were all bottom freezer type. But even if you do have to do this the instrucions looked easy, just cut a couple of wires, no splicing or anything.
Turned off power, removed cover from Ice maker, checked resistance across thermostat for zero (read open), all other switches read proper value (when activated). Ordered and received thermostat. Removed Ice Maker from freezer, removed two screws holding ice tray to Control Assembly. Removed Thermostat and replaced with new one. Applied Silicone Sealant to face of Thermostat for adhesion to ice tray when assembled. Remounted Ice Tray to Control Assembly and remounted in freezer. Works Great...
I ordered the part on Sunday and had it by Tuesday. It only took a few minutes to install. Basically, I unplugged the unit and removed the cover over the motherboard with a nutdriver. The wires were easy to unplug and reinstall. There was no way to incorrectly install since they could only fit in the correct position. I reinstalled the panel pluged it back in and now the fridge is working great.
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
First I turned the refrigerator and water line off. Then moved to the freezer section, followed the directions, removed the two screws. Directions state to not remove them but I had to in this case. Unplugged the ice maker and removed it from the freezer. I installed the two mounting screws then tried to plug the electrical connection back in but had to use the adaptor cord furnished in the kit. The cord was a little long but I tucked it in and mounted the ice maker. Turned it on then turned the refrigerator and water back on and in a few hours had ice! Very easy to do!
as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.
It started out with the door buttons not working and then the timer stopped working so it wouldn't allow the fan or the compressor to run replaced the board and everything started working
Took the three screws out of the cover, took the six plugs off of the board and removed board.
First turn off the power, remove the ice tray, remove the two screws holding the ice maker to the side of the freezer, use the screw driver to gently open the electrical clip for the power cord inside the freezer, remove the complete unit from freezer, bend the old stripper from the holding pin- it is flexible- it will bend, replace the new stripper on the holding pin and bend into the slot to hold it firmly, no water will come out from the fill cup into the freezer, plug in the power cord, mount back to side of freezer, you are done.
As it turned out much of the electronics is driven by 13.5 volts off the Main Control Board. The Ice Dispenser caused the problem because it over currented the depleted board power. You could hear a clicking noise from the board which was the main relay short cycling and not staying energized. While waiting for the replacement board I unpluged the condenser fan which is a DC motor and uses the Board power. In place of that fan I use a small table top fan to keep the condenser cool. As it turned out I only needed it for 3 days because Parts Select did a super quick job of delivering the new board. Thanks for the super service!!!!!! Removal of the board only required unpluging the electrical connections squezing the retaining board pins with pliers and pulling the board out, pushing on the new board and connecting the electrical plugs. If the board locks like mine did, just unplug the main board power plug, let the memory clear and replug the power plug. The unit should then start and run with no problems.
The repaire guy came in tooke it out and told me it is goin to coast $20 for the part and $50 for the labor..... So I looked, It was soooo eeezzz ALL you have to do is get the switch out( with help of my butter knife :) it plugs in to a little outlet on the wire (on the botom side) so take out the old one and plug in the new one wich I got for $8 + $6 shipping = $15 THANK YOU PART SELECT for saving me $55 Im a 36 y/o stayathome mom and Ihave never don this before, Im very proud of my self. well... it was very easy!
Water dispenser wouldn't work and refrigerator made an almost ghost like howling sound. Replacement main board fixed the noise. I purchased the replacement board for the ice and water (front of the refer) but haven't installed it yet.
First, we called Sears Repair and had a technician come to our home. He stated the motherboard had gone bad probably due to a power surge (we had no surge protector on the appliance). His price for repair was $465.00. We opted to go online for the part and found it for $165.00 through PartSelect.com. It was a very simple procedure of removing the old and installing the new. A few turns with the nut driver to uncover the part, a few tugs with the pliers to disconnect and voila!.. The fridge was back to cooling in no time.