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refrigerator clicking noise
removed cover from rear of refrigerator. disconnect mother board connections. Unplug first, used needle nose pliers to squeeze plastic tabs holding on motherboard and replaced old with new and plugged back in connections. Plug back in refrigerator and done.
Very simple fix by replacing the mother board. Your "how to" video made the repair even easier. The appliance repair estimate was over $400. I saved over $200. I already recommended your site to several other people. Thanks for making it so easy
I easily removed the screws and then removed the board and took a picture so I would remember how to re-connect it. It was really easy and now my refrigerator is working great. If I can do it anyone can do it. My husband was amazed that I did it all by myself.
Moved fridge out from wall. Unplugged. Removed circuitboard cover 6 screws?). Replaced circuit board (showed burn spots on back side). Replaced cover and plugged back in.
Removed the screws on the back panel with a nut driver and then removed the old board from the back. Rehooked the connections and replaced board and backing. Repairman wanted to charge $400 for parts and labor. Saved $150 because he charged to diagnose the problem.
Freezor & Refrig Too Hot Too Cold,Dispenser Work Sometimes
Unplugged side by side took about 4-5 screws out removed plate from back, unplugged the wires removed old board and plugged wires in new board, note: new board a little different than original. Screwed plate back in. So far so good. I do not think I will buy any more ge appliances, this one was very expensive but out of warranty now my ge dishwasher is making noise all purchased at same time.
freezer and frige stopped getting cold. had repairman come to check . thought it might be the board but wasn't sure (not very helpful). afer replacing board it took o time to get cold. no problem since.
Removed broken part from refrigerator. Removed 2 plastic parts and tempered glass shelf and installed on new part. Change out went OK. A few tools and some patience
the frig was not working well before part recieve now working ok so part has not been changed will let you know how it go after the part is changed
according to the vidio showing how to to change the control board its look relatively easy i dont think i will have a problem changing it ,,but will i change the right part for the problem " the frige take to long to get cold again after thrawing state freezer temperature went up to 19 * or more sometime ,,thermostat has been changed and its solved the ice deposit problem" hopefully changing the control board will help shorting the long thrawing state" the board has not been changed cause the frige start working again
no ice no water coming out of door and started making a clicking noise
I read other reviews then decided it was my main control board.Watched the video for install. It was easy to change out.Everything is working great again.
Ice and water dispenser wouldn't work- light dimmed and surged each time it was activated.
First, the part arrived very quickly- 2days (FedEx). Removed the back panel, began pulling multi-prong plugs from the old board. To remove the plug that came out laterally (power wires?), I used a thin screwdriver to press the retaining clips on the side of each pin (4 white) holding the circuit board in place and pulled it out for clearance, then wiggled the multi plug free from the board. [I didn't put a lot of pressure on the board while pulling these plugs- 'cause if the new board didn't work, I'd still have the old one.]
Installation was pretty much the reverse of all the steps above. Thankfully, this unit did not have a bottom freezer as two steps in the instructions would have made it riskier. Once plugged in, I listened for the fan and compressor to kick-in, didn't hear them (was concerned at first), but the dispenser worked ("yea!")- both crushed and cubed ice. The water worked also and it's been running fine for a couple of weeks now. After checking the temp settings they seemed more stable, the fan and compressor kicked in after a few minutes, and the ice-maker is working better than before (fills more quickly). Also, it seems to run less which makes me think I've been wasting electricity while the old control board was bad. Who knows what temps it was trying to reach on each side? Not that hard to repair, but read the instructions 'very' closely so you don't do something (like cut a wire) that doesn't apply to your fridge. Tim
I pulled the fridge out away from the wall, unplugged fridge, and found the panel that the main control board was behind. after comparing old board with the new i unpluged all of the connections unscrewed four screws and installed new board in reverse order. very simple..
Ice & Water dispenser did not dispense. When pushing on the dispenser lever, the entire unit briefly lost power and reset as though the appliance was unplugged. I heard a click from the back of the unit where the main board was located. Fridge made ice but didn't operate. I determined the micro-switch and solenoid were working properly. So the only thing that could be wrong was the board. Removed main board panel with screw/nut driver. Unplugged board connections. Un-snapped main board from housing assembly. Installation is the reverse. Very easy. Only needed was a screw/nut driver. Electrical connections are easy since the harnesses can only fit to their own connection. No way to make a mistake. Took no more than 10 minutes.
